Guides to Argentina’s Wine Regions

Geography and terroir

The second-largest country in South America, Argentina wrote the book on captivating scenery: glaciated Andean peaks, cacti-dotted deserts, crystal clear lakes, and mountain vineyards are commonplace in this outdoor paradise. To the west is Chile, and its world-famous wine regions – Bolivia, Paraguay, Brazil, and Uruguay also share a border with Argentina.

Today, the country is the fifth largest wine producer in the world, boasting 215,000  hectares under vine, spread across 14 provinces. However, Mendoza drives Argentina’s growing international success, as over 80 percent of Malbec wines are made in the region. In every sense of the word, Mendoza is Argentina’s wine capital.

High-Altitude Vineyards

Its vineyards are located northwest of Buenos Aires on the eastern side of the Andes (Santiago is fewer than 50 minutes by air). Like many Argentine vineyards, Mendoza has become a global celebrity due to the abundance of high-altitude terrain; the average elevation is over 900 meters above sea level. Yet, the awe-inspiring vineyards of Salta go one step further, rising to a jaw-dropping 3000 meters. In Europe, ripening berries at these vertiginous altitudes would be impossible.

In Argentina, however, such topographical advantages are regarded as quotidian. Due to intense sunlight and high elevation, vines yield generous crops of well-flavored, deeply colored grapes that showcase beautiful freshness into the bargain; diurnal temperature variation is one of the country’s greatest assets. Indeed, up to a 36°F temperature range is more common in Argentine vineyards than almost anywhere else in the world.

Nevertheless, it is nearly too easy to achieve phenolic ripeness in the hot climates of Mendoza and Salta, mainly because there is little or no disease in the dry mountain air. Local soils, meanwhile, tend to be relatively young and rich in alluvial matter: large volumes of silt, clay, and sand particles. The upshot is that high alcohol and voluptuous concentration are not rare commodities in Argentina. You’ve come to the right place if you desire soft tannins and exuberant fruit.

However, conditions in Argentina are not perfect by any means, and growers know that consumers are turning away from fruit-bomb wines in their droves; crunchy fruit and moderate alcohol are the height of fashion in 2024. This has been the catalyst for Argentina’s pathological obsession with high-altitude viticulture, while winemakers attempt to deliberately slow ripening by controlling drip irrigation to produce balanced and elegant wines.

Impact of Climate Change

Historically, vineyards and irrigation channels were positioned so that vines could be literally flooded with meltwater off the Andes, producing massive yields of inflated berries that were ‘punch drunk’ on sunshine and moisture.

Global warming, however, has drastically reduced the amount of snowfall on the mountain peaks, so traditional flood irrigation is being replaced with boreholes and sophisticated drip irrigation. However, in times of severe drought, local authorities may limit irrigation to preserve human life.

Like California, this has become a major concern for Argentine wine producers. Conversely, spring frost attacks are another growing problem in the cooler areas, in addition to hail storms during the growing season. In 2023, many growers lost over 70 percent of their potential crop due to severe frosts and then, to compound matters, punishing drought. Many growers invest in special anti-hail nets that shield against overexposure to intense UV light.

Winemaking and regional classifications

With a varied topography, healthy domestic consumption, a rich palette of grape varieties, and over 900 wineries, Argentina’s wine industry is in rude health. New styles and up-and-coming grapes – Viognier has shown much promise – are keeping everyone on their toes while global investment remains strong.

The country is now an attractive proposition for every type of consumer: well-heeled collectors, casual drinkers, white wine lovers, and Malbec aficionados. Is there some dross as well? Absolutely, connoisseurs rightly ignore the oceans of table wine from Cereza, the Criollas, Pedro Gimenez, and Moscatel Alejandria. Quality, not quantity, is our focus here.

Key regions

Mendoza

Mendoza, centered on the vibrant city of the same name, has long been Argentina’s export champion. For centuries, winemakers have been growing vines in Central Mendoza and its environs, producing some of the country’s finest reds. What stands in its favor is a combination of high-tech equipment – Mendoza’s wineries are a dead ringer for Napa Valley in terms of splashing the cash – and a treasure trove of bush vines. The temperate climate of Central Mendoza and its gravel terroir only add to its viticultural appeal.

Old vine Malbec is the region’s trump card, aided by a supporting cast of Bordeaux varieties and some surprisingly fresh and elegant whites. Many critics would argue that Luján de Cuyo is Mendoza’s leading subregion, located south of the city. The concentration and power defining Cuyo-grown Malbec are impressive, particularly when the top wines are matured in French oak – a hallmark of most super-premium Argentine labels.

However, it increasingly faces stiff competition from several subzones, including Vistalba, Perdriel, Agrelo, Las Compuertas, and Maipu. Agrelo’s cooler mesoclimate is favored by many investors, while the gravel-rich soils of Maipu yield structured and highly fragrant Cabernet Sauvignon.

However, East Mendoza and San Rafael are dedicated to producing low-quality wines. This is partly a concomitant of simple geography: vineyards are planted at lower altitudes in the zone, and the cooling influence of the Andes is considerably diluted here. Thus, abundant sunshine and ample irrigation from the Mendoza and Tunuyan rivers equals gallons of dross.

However, it’s a very different story in the spectacular Uco Valley south of Mendoza. Although the first vines were only planted in the 1980s, the subregion has become an international trendsetter, attracting the best and brightest of fine wine: luxury goods giant LVMH, Michel Rolland, and Jean-Jacques Bonnie of Château Malartic-Lagravière. Rising to elevations that exceed 1600 meters, the highest vineyards are found in the Tupungato zone, where some truly exceptional Chardonnay is grown – almost Burgundian in its structure and finesse.

Incredibly intense sunlight and cool nights are responsible for the hauntingly beautiful fruit flavors that define Tupungato Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and some exquisite Pinot Noir. Traditional method sparkling wine, a niche but expanding category, can also be imposing: Zuccardi Blanc de Blancs would be our first choice.

Norte

The northernmost of Argentina’s wine regions is home to a roll call of nascent appellations, some of which are starting to establish international reputations. Jujuy, however, is a somewhat obscure part of Argentina’s viticultural map – a small province that is located close to the Chilean and Bolivian borders. The action occurs in the Valle Quebrada de Humahuaca and in the warmer Templados zone further south, where varieties planted at over 3000 meters yield fresh and elegant wines. Today, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Torrontes, and even Sauvignon Blanc can all do well here. However, there is a lot of work left to do before Jujuy becomes an export sensation.

San Juan is a rival to Mendoza in terms of volume—but not overall wine quality. In this scorching and dry climate (less than 90 mm of rain per annum), vineyards completely reliant on irrigation deliver generous crops of Moscatel de Alejandria and Criolla Grande/Chica that are of little interest to oenophiles. But a small revolution is gathering momentum in San Juan, as quality-conscious producers use elevation to craft surprisingly fresh Syrah and Bordeaux blends containing a fair dollop of Malbec.

Meanwhile, La Rioja has little in common with its Spanish namesake. However, it produces some delicious Torrontes in the dry Famatina Valley, a growing spicy Malbec, and good value Tempranillo. Nevertheless, critics are far more excited by the vineyards of Salta, home to what are claimed to be the highest vineyards in the world. Bodega Colomé is the most established name in the Calchaquies Valley.

However, the area under vine has ballooned to just over 4000 hectares, and the number of wineries has increased since the early start-up days. To the south is Cafayete and its lower elevation climats: Torrontes and Sangiovese are proven success stories in these very arid vineyards. As elsewhere, irrigation is an essential part of life in northwest Argentina.

Catamarca is the most embryonic of this diverse lineup, traditionally associated with table grapes and lackluster plonk. However, a younger generation of ambitious winegrowers are developing the region, mindful of the declining market for cheap supermarket dross. Some very promising Torrontes, Malbec, and Bordeaux blends are being made on the banks of the Abaucan River and under the rain shadow of the Andes. Their most attractive qualities are rich varietal character and bracing acidity (due to the altitude). Yet very little premium wine manages to leave Argentina – or indeed the wider region.

Patagonia

A region of extraordinary beauty, Patagonia (twice the size of California) contains more jaw-dropping scenery than any other part of Argentina. Many visitors come here simply to get away from it all; however, a burgeoning wine culture is developing in the provinces of Neuquen, Rio Negro, and Chubut, home to some of the most southernmost vineyards in the world. And, unlike San Juan and Catamarca, artisan producers and small farms dominate this region – Patagonia has no global brands. Yet the hype continues as European investors, not least Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, produce exciting wines from Burgundy’s two signature varieties.

Indeed, it is hard to imagine a more elegant and suave expression of Pinot Noir than Bodega Chacra’s Lunita; the Chardonnay produced in collaboration with Jean-Marc Roulot is equally brilliant. These are bright, precise, and structured wines underpinned by ripe acidity and exceptional length.

But, unlike Mendoza, Patagonia is not obsessed with high terrain. Many vineyards are planted at about 300 meters above sea level, and much of Patagonia is a barren desert punctuated with verdant landscapes close to the rivers and eastern flank of the Andes.

Nevertheless, Antarctic influences keep temperatures down at night, while strong winds keep vine diseases such as powdery and downy mildew at bay. The net result is a far cooler climate than one will encounter in Mendoza and the far north regions, which is responsible for the super-fresh character that defines Patagonian dry whites: Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling both shine here.

Likewise, there is much to recommend in the medium-bodied Malbec wines that resemble Cahors in their spicy profiles and lighter structure. Once a non-entity in the Argentine wine community, Patagonia has become Argentina’s answer to the Old World.

Argentina gastronomy

Believe the hype: Argentina’s food scene is a glorious melting pot of indigenous, Spanish, and Italian influences, with some avant-garde trends chucked in for good measure. Indeed, while Argentina has thousands of parrillas (steak restaurants that are always fun and lively), red meat isn’t the only thing on the menu.

For example, in Mendoza and Buenos Aires, you’re just as likely to come across small plate restaurants serving gourmet fare, with a copious amount of Malbec on standby. Meanwhile, The pasta and pizza are comparable to the finest dishes in Rome. And don’t get us started on Argentine helado (ice cream). It is delicious to the point of ecstasy.