Even by the standards of Argentina, Jujuy (pronounced hoo-hooey) is a remarkable place. Founded in the 16th century, it remains the most culturally indigenous of Argentina’s small cities in a far northeastern corner of this amazing country. For most visitors, it provides the ideal base to explore the spectacular scenery of the Quebrada de Humahuaca – dotted with cacti, towering peaks, and historic villages; this almost extraterrestrial landscape has no equal in South America.
Despite its short wine history, Jujuy has emerged as a promising wine destination in the 21st century. Until then, maize, sugar cane, and tobacco were the mainstays of Jujuy’s agricultural economy. Commercial wine production only took root in the early 2000s, thanks to the pioneering efforts of Claudio Zucchino and Fernando Dupont.
The former, the son of a miner and organic winegrower, has spearheaded numerous community projects in the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Fernando Dupont, an agricultural engineer from the Pampas, is the founder of an exceptional vineyard in the subregion of Maimará. Together with a small but growing group of wine prospectors, they are determined to put Jujuy on the international map.
Located in the extreme northwest of Argentina, Jujuy is a small vineyard with a lot to offer. Its viticultural fame (at least in wine circles) derives from its incredible altitude: the highest vineyards in the world are cultivated in the village of Uquía at 3,329 meters above sea level. Here, close to the Bolivian and Chilean borders, Claudio Zucchino produces exceptional wines in the narrow Quebrada de Humahuaca Valley.
Designated a “Natural and Cultural Heritage of Humanity” site by UNESCO in 2003, the Quebrada reveals a palette of mineral colors that change as the day progresses. This arid valley grew sugar cane for centuries and provided a home for Argentina’s indigenous communities, surrounded by imposing cliffs and mountains. It’s a destination where the pace of life grinds to a standstill – a place to come up for air and leave omnipresent technology behind.
Rising Interest in Jujuy’s Artisan Wineries
Yet, despite being in the very early stages of development, a rising number of international visitors are now exploring the artisan wineries of Jujuy. Today, approximately 56 hectares are under vine, managed by some 23 winegrowers. Two distinct subzones remain the focus of investment from outsiders: the 80-kilometer-long Quebrada de Humahuaca and the Valles Templados further south.
Located within the eastern half of the Andes, the vineyards are very close to the equator and, as a consequence, enjoy a hot and dry climate.
In the summer, temperatures can exceed 90 °F in the Valles Templados; however, by evening, it will have fallen to an average of 71 °F. Nevertheless, growers work in a desert climate with less than 150 mm of annual rainfall to nourish the vines. Agricultural conditions in the vivid landscapes of the northwest, isolated and remote, have always been extremely challenging.
Moreover, Jujuy’s high solar radiation levels and punishingly dry climate make ripening grapes all too easy; you can taste the abundant sunshine in soft tannins and high alcohols—two things most quality-conscious growers wish to avoid. Winemakers can take steps to moderate the impact of intense sunshine, such as implementing effective canopy management by protecting vines from winds and solar radiation with artificial coverings, irrigating carefully at optimal times, and selecting suitable clones, all of which can make a significant difference.
Diurnal Temperature Variation
Without the benefits of diurnal temperature variation, producing quality wine in Jujuy would be complicated, if not impossible. Most climats (vineyard sites) rise to at least 2,500 meters above sea level in the region, which significantly helps to moderate the summer heat and put the brakes on sugar development in the berries. The area’s very poor and rocky soils help, too: they are far less fertile than the more famous vineyards of Salta in the south. Fed by sophisticated irrigation systems, Malbec, Torrontes, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and a tiny amount of Cabernet Sauvignon can produce delectable wines in Jujuy.
The reds combine intense dark fruits with bracing freshness and acidity – one of Argentina’s key USPs. The volume of dry whites, though, remains minute. The vivid landscapes of the northwest, isolated and remote, have always presented extremely challenging agricultural conditions.
It is also a region that prioritizes sustainability and eco-conscious wine growing. At Viñas de Uquìa, for example, two streams that flow all year round provide all its water; organic viticulture ensures the vineyard does not require high levels of synthetic herbicides, fertilizers, and pesticides. The small on-site hostel, meanwhile, utilizes solar energy to provide warm water, removing the need for fossil fuels.
In collaboration with the local community and funding diverse projects, Claudio Zucchino provides a benchmark for ethical farming in Argentine winemaking. This commitment to sustainability is reassuring and deserving of support from all wine enthusiasts and travelers.
Winemaking and regional classifications
Alejandro Sejanovich, owner of Bodega Huichaira
Jujuy’s small number of boutique wineries are achieving wonders in this harsh and inhospitable climate, empowered with their passion and unrivaled knowledge of the world’s tallest vineyards. The number of exceptional Malbec wines, especially from the cooler Quebrada de Humahuaca, continues to expand and draw the attention of critics and key influencers—more people are visiting the region than ever before. Yet, while Malbec is undoubtedly easier to sell abroad, the best examples of locally grown Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are no less impressive.
Much of this success is due to the inspirational work of Claudio Zucchino and Alejandro Sejanovich, the latter responsible for making the wines of Huichaira, a four-hectare plot with amazing potential. But world-class terroir is only part of the equation in this up-and-coming region. In addition to a growing emphasis on organic and biodynamic viticulture, winemaking in Jujuy is often designed to push boundaries.
The legendary winemaker and consultant Marcos Etchart has collaborated with Zucchino to produce a powerful red blend free of any oak influence. Their philosophy, enthusiastically adopted by others, is to keep man-made inputs to an absolute minimum, expressing the particularities of terroir with a laser-like focus and precision. The result is a remarkable, age-worthy wine that is sadly made in very small quantities: less than 5000 bottles in certain years.
Unique Aging Methods in Jujuy
Zucchino is also renowned for his unorthodox approach to wine aging. Indeed, who else would leave their prized creations in a disused mining tunnel for eight years – he describes it as “aestivating the wine” – before they are sold?
“The constant temperature and humidity, added to absolute silence, stillness, and darkness create the ideal way to age wine, obeying ancestral mandates.”
Meanwhile, other producers in Jujuy are using modern equipment (much the same as in Mendoza) and low yields to fashion complex and terroir-driven wines from classic French grapes – blends of Malbec, Cabernet, and Syrah are very popular today. Compared to some of Mendoza’s more commercial labels, there is an added dimension to red wines made in northwestern Argentina; Syrah develops a striking varietal intensity due to the very long hours of summer sunshine.
Whole bunch fermentation, vinification in concrete eggs, and maturation in French barrique are fairly common, despite the excitement over ‘oak-free’ reds from some quarters. Nevertheless, Fernando Dupont prefers to age his Punta Corral and Pasacana wines for eight and 18 months in wood – new oak in the latter case. These are fiery, exotic blends with plenty of concentration, richness, and freshness on the palate. They can hold their own in a room full of international competition.
Elsewhere, a tiny volume of Tempranillo, Bonarda, and delicious Pinot Noir is made in Jujuy—look out for velvety expressions of Cabernet Franc and smoky/spicy Petit Verdot. In the soaring elevations of Quebrada de Humahuaca, you can even discover some oak-aged and very fruity Chardonnay—a nice counterpoint to the piercingly fragrant Torrontes whites. In Jujuy, there is a site suited to every noble grape variety. Watch this space.
Facts & Figures
Key wine styles
Full-bodied red and white wines
Appellation structure
Two GIs (Indicaciones Geográficas): Jujuy and Quebrada de Humahuaca
Hectares under vine
56
Average annual production
25,000 cases per annum
Approximate number of producers
23 winegrowers
Exclusive Expert Insights
Insight by Daniel Mansur, Winegrower at El BayehDaniel Manzur (right), winemaker at El Bayeh winery
When did your winery first invest in the region, and why?
El Bayeh is a family winery that has been working the land in Quebrada de Humahuaca since 1971, when my grandfather, Pedro Manzur El Bayeh, a fruit and vegetable merchant, managed to buy his piece of land and became a farmer himself. Today, we are the third generation of farmers and the first generation of wine growers. My family and I are fulfilling my grandfather’s dream of having his farm in Maimara, Quebrada de Humahuaca, planted with vines. And it was in 2019 that we started to fulfill that dream.
What are the area’s unique characteristics: its soils, topography, etc?
Quebrada de Humahuaca is an Andean valley, cornered and flanked by two large mountain ranges that make the arable valley scarce and force winegrowers to climb the slopes of the mountains and into the ravines. Here, the soils are mainly stony due to the scarce summer rains, which cause young formations to detach and form colluvial fans due to the slope.
Further down in the valley is the Rio Grande (which has its source in the Cerro Bayo at 4500 meters above sea level and begins this watershed). As a result of its successive floods over time, it has formed deep soils, sandy loam, silty, and even clayey.
All this is developed at a considerable altitude. The wineries are located from south to north in Purmamarca at 2300 meters above sea level and Chucalezna at 3300 meters above sea level. This altitude makes the radiation intense, the hot days ripen the fruit, and around midday, by the pressure difference between this valley and the Temperate Valley in spring and summer runs a wind that refreshes and cleanses the area, and at night, the cold descends from the mountains, making the fruit ripen slowly.
In your experience, which grape varieties excel in this terroir?
Jujuy is a very young region, no more than 20/25 years old. It started when the pioneer Fernando Dupont planted in Maimara in 2003. That is why local wineries are still learning and experimenting. Of course, Malbec is one of the main varieties planted, and it has very good results. However, it is very difficult to grow it here, as it delivers low yields.
Meanwhile, Syrah is a promising variety that several producers cultivate: it is very generous, ripens well, has good concentration, round tannin, fruit, and good acidity. However, it is still very young. White varieties are also found in Jujuy, including Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay, Torrontes, and Riesling to a lesser extent.
In this region, we have also found vines of Criolla grapes (large, small, Pedro Gimenez, Muscat, and Torrontes) that are very old and often belong to family households, farmers, and fruit growers in the towns of Purmamarca, Maimara, Tilcara and Huacalera. In certain cases, we’re literally talking about plots that are situated in back gardens.
These heritage vineyards prove that private individuals made wine for friends and family before Fernando Dupont arrived. They are not large plantations, just a few vines that have been used to make some remarkable wines nonetheless.
Torrontés is a distinctive white grape variety from Argentina, known for its strong aromatic qualities featuring jasmine, lychee, and orange. It includes three sub-varieties: Torrontés Riojano, Torrontés Sanjuanino, and Torrontés Mendocino, with Torrontés Riojano being the most celebrated for its quality. Predominantly cultivated in Argentina's high-altitude vineyards, the cool nighttime temperatures help preserve the grape's acidity and enhance its aroma, essential for creating refreshing and high-quality wines.
In Jujuy’s hauntingly beautiful landscapes, food is locally sourced, straightforward, and usually delicious. Traveling gastronomes, however, should not expect the dazzling creativity of Buenos Aires or Mendoza: the northwest Argentine cookbook has its roots firmly in indigenous cuisine.
Thus, you can expect llama prepared in many ways: quinoa risotto (a local specialty), goat meat cazuelas (stews), and some exquisite freshwater fish – the trout is always superb. And, if you look hard enough, you’re bound to discover some tasty pizza and pasta options, particularly in San Salvador de Jujuy.
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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