Patagonia Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Wine Star Awards, organized by Wine Enthusiast magazine, nominated Bodega Otronia in Patagonia for a ‘New World Winery of the Year‘ award in 2024. Set up to “recognize and celebrate the innovation of those who significantly contribute to the success of the wine world,” the awards demonstrate that smaller, quality-minded producers are bringing acclaim to Argentina’s newest vineyard.

Meanwhile, the Decanter World Wine Awards continues to hand out venerated Gold Medals to Patagonia’s talented vignerons. The region has become one of South America’s greatest success stories in a relatively brief period, and its transformation is remarkable.

Three key elements lie behind Patagonia’s rapid ascent. Neuquén, Chubut, and Rio Negro all enjoy a very brisk climate, able to yield super-fresh and elegant wines of moderate alcohol. This is achingly on-trend: all the evidence suggests that many consumers are moderating their intake of alcoholic beverages in key global markets.

In other words, Patagonia delivers what the trade requires: crisp and saline dry whites often fermented in stainless steel or concrete and bottled 12 months after harvest. Moreover, the vast majority of labels are ready to drink on release, with ABVs of 12.5 percent. At the same time, the best red wines of Neuquén and Chubut to the south can improve in bottle for a decade. It’s an enticing package.

Another critical factor is the astounding popularity of New World Pinot Noir, accentuated by exorbitant Burgundy prices. Fortunately, the grape is blossoming in the cool-climate subregions of Patagonia; it is arguably more important than Malbec in elevating Patagonia’s international cachet.

Today, Bodega Chacra produces one of Argentina’s greatest examples. Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, the owner of Tuscany’s Sassicaia in Bolgheri, founded this beautiful estate in 2004. Working in collaboration with Burgundy’s Jean-Marc Roulot (famous for his exceptional Meursault), Chacra has redefined New World Pinot Noir by reviving old vineyards in Rio Negro.

The estate farms biodynamically and produces a range of labels, including some exquisite single-vineyard Chardonnay. Low-yielding vines deliver small clusters of berries that, in the case of Lunita (a top single vineyard), are sourced from ungrafted plantations. The grapes are not crushed: della Rocchetta prefers to use whole clusters in the fermentation tank, vinifying in open concrete vats.

Several prominent Burgundians, including Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac, believe that grape stems help to regulate fermentation temperature; ripe stems can also add welcome structure and complexity to the wine.

In most cases, pigeage (punch down) keeps the skins in contact with the juice, which is released via pressure from berries at the top of the vat. At moderately high temperatures, the alcoholic fermentation will extract color, tannin, and flavor from the marc.

However, Bodega Chacra takes a different approach. According to the estate, “Lunita is not extracted nor concentrated as we ferment it by infusions.” It is then aged in a mixture of used oak barrels and concrete (50 percent each) to avoid subjugating its delicate aromatic profile.

In blind tastings, even experienced professionals can be duped by Lunita’s hauntingly beautiful perfume and flavor transparency, which are often assumed to be a top Burgundy – Volnay, perhaps? – the wine belies its origins. It is a light, elegant, and very precise red: notes of minerals, crushed red fruit, and citrus rise from the glass.

Meanwhile, an exceptionally long finish suggests that some bottle age, say 3-4 years, could really flatter the wine. Produced in regrettably small volumes (less than 8,000 bottles), it has become a massive hit with critics and influential sommeliers.

And yet, there is more. Exceptional Syrah and apricot-scented Viognier have caused a stir among consumers, the former delivering perfumed, peppery, richly varietal reds in Neuquén. The Chablis-like Chardonnays are no less popular, although a dose of new barrique can yield a striking facsimile of Puligny-Montrachet in the stony soils of Rio Negro. Other fast-emerging stars include Pinot Gris (ranging from mouth-filling to light and crisp) and lemony Riesling.

Patagonia’s eclectic terroirs have one thing in common: a temperate climate, ideal for classic European grape varieties. Thus, investors have avoided the temptation to stake their reputation on one totemic variety despite the undeniable hype attached to Pinot Noir. Yet there are no viticultural monopolies in the diverse vineyards of Patagonia. Let the exploration begin.

Geography and terroir

There is nowhere else on earth like Patagonia. Twice the size of California, it offers topographical variety on an unprecedented scale: geysers, glaciers, rivers, crystal-clear lakes, mountains, and desert plains can all be found here. Meanwhile, the sight of vineyards, once confined to small hobby farms, is becoming more familiar with each new vintage. Global investors, drawn to South America’s golden opportunity, have planted over 3700 hectares in the region.

Indeed, the natural advantages speak for themselves. There are three key subregions in Patagonia – Neuquén, Chubut, and Rio Negro – each of which has something unique to offer. Yet, viticulture does not dominate the vast majority of plantable land: Patagonia, which constitutes a third of Argentina’s landmass (approximately 777,000 square kilometers), extends from Ushuaia at the southern tip to the town of Neuquén on the northern border.

In contrast, just 300 kilometers of terrain is used to cultivate vines, with most vineyards found close to the Neuquén and Rio Negro rivers. Vines could not survive here without ample irrigation moisture from these watercourses. The Andes and neighboring Chile are to the west of Patagonia; the South Atlantic is situated to the east.

However, despite the abundance of rivers and lakes in Patagonia, this is essentially a desert. Average rainfall is under 300mm annually, while most vineyards lie about 300 meters above sea level. This is very tame when benchmarked against the high-altitude climats (vineyard sites) that define Mendoza and Salta in the northwest; diurnal temperature variation provides a vital safeguard against excessive alcohol in these warm climate regions – it slows down the vine’s metabolism as the sun sets. Without it, alcohol levels could easily surpass 16 percent in central-western Argentina.

Yet, as the glaciers of Patagonia so forcefully demonstrate, this is a distinctly cool-climate region. These majestic ribbons of ice, much-loved by outdoor enthusiasts, are only made possible by the area’s high latitude – southern Patagonia is far closer to Antarctica than the equator! As a result, average summer temperatures rarely climb above 72°F in Neuquén, growing increasingly cooler as you head south. Brisk winds are also a major feature of life here, liable to exceed 100 miles per hour in extreme cases. Thus, an overripe Patagonian wine is indeed rare.

The critical mass showcases crisp fruit and vibrant acidity – still and sparkling white wines are now a region’s specialty. One of the principal reasons that draws investors to southern Argentina is the region’s specialty in Burgundy varieties and production of low-alcohol dry whites.

Today, vintners cultivate a broad palette of grape varieties in Patagonia, including Malbec, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Syrah. Meanwhile, the composition of Patagonian soils is mainly alluvial matter (sand, silt, and clay), with fertile loamy terroirs considered less suitable for high-quality wine production. However, some exceptional gravel-rich soils exist in Patagonia, with limestone in the substratum. Like Bordeaux, they yield fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines with beautiful aromatics and moderate alcohol. However, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir elicit the most excitement from consumers and critics.

Patagonia gastronomy

Patagonia’s cities offer various eating options, from budget to deluxe. n the coastal areas, local seafood offers an exquisite treat: the best restaurants in Punta Arenas serve centolla (king crab) paired with Neuquén Chardonnay. At the same time, inland cuisine leans more heavily into grilled meat dishes. Lamb is Patagonia’s signature red meat, often braised in a delicious concoction of red wine, stock, and root vegetables. Purists, however, will argue that sizzling steak and milk-fed lamb, served in boisterous parrillas, are Patagonia’s true gastronomic triumphs.