San Juan Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Leading producers in San Juan are starting to impress the critics: some world-class Malbec, Syrah, Chardonnay, and even Pinot Noir are now being made here. Twenty-five years ago, the idea of premiumization taking root in the province would have been met with derision. But while mass-market still rules the roost, pioneers such as Graffigna and Pyros inspire other wineries to up their game.

The burgeoning and varied subregion of Pedernal has earned itself a reputation for San Juan’s finest red wines: precise, super-fresh, and uncommonly elegant. Pyros Vineyard Limestone Hill Malbec is the exemplar – viticultural expert Claude Bourguignon and the renowned geophysicist Guillermo Corona have both played a part in its inception. Together, they identified superior plots in the valley, planting vines on ancient calcareous soils that are poor in organic matter, rich in minerals, and notable for their ability to retain moisture. Moreover, at 1400 meters above sea level, the diurnal range is significant enough to slow down the vine’s metabolism at night.

Winemaking Techniques Elevating Quality

The winemaking is equally fine-tuned. Hand-harvested grapes are carefully destemmed, crushed, and subject to a cold soak (pre-fermentation maceration) in a combination of large oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. This will start the extraction process, gently removing color and flavor from the berry skins while avoiding harsh tannins.

The main fermentation will then begin, using a mixture of wild and cultivated yeast strains. A relatively lengthy post-fermentation maceration (around 30 days) produces a deeply colored and structured red, aged in both new and used oak barrels (300 liters) for 12 months. The result is a complex and wonderfully aromatic Malbec with an earthy undertone emblematic of the valley’s calcareous terroirs. On the other hand, the arid and heavily planted Zonda Valley is the source of anodyne supermarket blends that are fermented quickly and cheaply in gargantuan steel tanks. But this side of San Juan is of little interest to sommeliers and oenophiles.

However, the Tulum and Zonda Valleys are also starting to produce some very respectable wines, albeit the volumes are minuscule. Red grapes tend to give the best results: spicy and concentrated Syrah has a whiff of South Africa about it, while Tannat has proven its mettle at higher elevations. Like Syrah, it has emerged as one of Argentina’s strongest suits, although one should not overlook the supple Cabernet Franc. Of the dry whites, Chardonnay has shown the most promise so far, particularly if you enjoy a more opulent and buttery expression of the grape.

New Benchmarks

The quality of Pyros’ Chardonnay, partially vinified in first-, second-, and third-use French oak barrels, has been internationally recognized as setting a new benchmark in San Juan. Now, a range of explorers, inspired by their success, continue to stretch the limits of viticulture in this challenging environment. It is still very early; however, the most talented winemakers have managed to craft silky Viognier and crystalline Sauvignon Blanc from select sites in Pedernal. The local wine map continues to expand and surprise us all.

Geography and terroir

Developed feverishly in the 20th century as a center of bulk production, San Juan is tentatively exploring the world of premium wines today. However, the region’s steep-sided valleys remain a key source of table grapes in Argentina, which is unlikely to change soon.

Meanwhile, companies purchase gallons of high-yielding Criolla Grande and Cereza, made in factory conditions, for distillation (a great deal of Argentine Brandy relies on San Juan grapes) or for the production of sweetened, sherry-style concoctions. The volume of high-quality bottled wine is still a relative drop in the ocean.

Rich Viticultural Landscape

San Juan boasts a wealth of superior terroir, particularly in the emerging Pedernal Valley subregion. Responsible for over a quarter of the nation’s total wine output, this substantial vineyard is located to the north of Mendoza and the south of La Rioja, bordered by the Andes along its western edge. The vineyards nestle in a series of dry valleys that dot the region, including the Tulum Valley (near the city itself) and the Zonda subzone to the west of San Juan. Winemakers cultivate approximately 32,000 hectares of vines in the province, which accounts for 17 percent of the national vineyard area. They dedicate half of the agricultural land to ripening grapes.Winegrowing, a tradition since the 1600s, is a vital part of the economic, social, and cultural life of San Juan.

And yet, cultivable land remains at a premium in the region: mountains occupy more than 80% of the landscape in San Juan. At the same time, the lower-lying areas (by the standards of Argentina, at least) are hotter and drier than neighboring Mendoza. Indeed, producers grow grapes in a desert-like environment, where an average rainfall of 100mm per year is woefully inadequate for the needs of local agriculture. Thankfully, farmers can irrigate their crops with water taken from the San Juan and Jachal rivers; Andean meltwater also plays a decisive role in San Juan viticulture, filling the reservoir with vital water reserves in the summer months. But, as global warming advances, viticulturists worry that the mountain glaciers may eventually disappear. This occurrence would irrevocably change life in San Juan unless they can find alternative water sources.

Meanwhile, the hot, dry wine known as the Zonda helps to keep vine diseases at bay: powdery and downy mildew are scarcely a problem in much of Argentina. Yet, compared to Catamarca and Jujuy, viticulturists have planted some climats (vineyard sites) at moderate elevations of around 550 meters above sea level, offering less protection from the fierce summer heat. The growing conditions in San Juan, however, are not uniform. In the Tulum, Calingasta, and Pedernal Valleys, high-altitude sites and calcareous soils yield impressive wines.

Pedernal Valley

The best evidence is found in the Pedernal Valley, an increasingly important subregion south of San Juan. Just over 850 hectares of vineyards are planted on exceptional terroir: limestone-rich soils covered in ubiquitous stone fragments. This infertile terrain and strictly controlled irrigation are naturally conducive to low yields and high-quality wines. Elevation is also a vital factor – an average altitude of 1300 meters above sea level accentuates the chilling effect of mountain breezes, making viticulture possible in this (overall) very hot and dry climate. The abundance of intense sunlight produces wines of immense concentration and ripeness; it is a sign of national confidence in the region that, despite water shortages, investors continue to develop these high-potential sites. In a relatively short period, Pedernal has become a vineyard synonymous with innovation and excitement.

San Juan gastronomy

San Juan’s restaurant scene lacks the panache and variety of Mendoza, yet from one perspective, that’s a good thing. For a start, there are no crowds of tourists, and the family-run businesses in the downtown area guarantee authenticity. Lively bars, informal restaurants, and sizzling hot parrillas (grill restaurants) are the mainstay of local gastronomy, with excellent value reds on tap. Chivito (goat), bife de chorizo ( strip steak), and ‘costillitas de ternera’ (beef ribs) are local specialties.