Casablanca Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Casablanca (white house) is now considered the most important subregion in the Aconcagua Valley. It is the first coastal-influenced vineyard to rise to prominence in the modern era, with some 3500 hectares under vine today. Hitherto ignored, Casablanca has become a major producer of fine Burgundy varietals and a growing volume of exceptional sparkling wine.

The vignoble is situated northwest of Santiago, approximately 100 kilometers from Chile’s handsome capital. To the north is Valparaiso and its iconic pastel-colored houses; the region’s tourist infrastructure has developed at an astonishing rate, set up to accommodate both regional and international visitors. Indeed, next to the Central Valley, Casablanca is probably one of Chile’s most renowned vineyards.

According to the promotional organization Wines of Chile:

“This is where our ‘cool climate wine revolution’ started when vines were first planted here in 1982. These forward-thinking pioneers were seeking to make fresher, more vibrant white wines, braving the area’s propensity for frosts but attracted to summer temperatures averaging around 77 °F.”

Climatic Challenges

Yet the valley’s geographical position presents challenges: Vineyards are located some distance from the Andes, so growers cannot rely on cool mountain air to freshen the vine canopy. In addition, water shortages can be a major issue here—snowmelt from the Andes is not available this far west. Devastating spring frost attacks can also occur with alarming frequency. However, few vintners can afford to prioritize anti-frost sprinklers in such a dry climate. As a result, viticulture can be an expensive business in Casablanca.

More positively, much of the region lies close to the Pacific, where marine breezes can be relied upon to soften the intense summer heat; the valley is heavily influenced by the Humboldt Current, a cold ocean current that originates in Antarctica. This important phenomenon, combined with cool ocean air, allows the production of cool-climate styles in an area surprisingly close to the equator! But, thanks to misty mornings and often extensive cloud cover, Casablanca enjoys a fairly elongated growing season.

All things being equal, this will yield small berries of highly aromatic fruit with vibrant acidity and ripe tannins. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir all benefit from a longer ripening period, helping to ensure that grape sugars and phenolic compounds are in perfect balance. In hotter climates, there is always a danger that sugar ripeness will race ahead of phenolic ripeness, leading to imbalances in sugars, acidity, and aromas.

Varied Soil Types and Water Management

According to Wines of Chile, Casablanca has various soil types, including friable granite, light sand, and heavier clay. The latter can retain moisture during the dry season, while sandy terroirs suffer from a vine malady caused by nematodes (parasitic worms) that attack vine roots. For this reason, Casablanca is one of the few Chilean destinations where growers must rely on disease-resistant rootstock despite the lack of phylloxera in this isolated part of South America.

“The area has been able to develop thanks to a system of wells installed to harvest water,” explained a representative from WOS. They added that the vineyards closest to Santiago are “somewhat warmer as the coastal mountain range here is higher, blocking more of the Pacific influence.”

Today, the region is heavily planted to Sauvignon Blanc – a signature Chilean export – in addition to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Syrah. The best wines are world-class – full of vibrant fruit, ripe acidity, and beautiful aromatics. They are great ambassadors for this beguiling nation.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Thirty years ago, Chilean Chardonnay was average at best. Grown in warmer regions, it yielded full-bodied whites of moderate acidity resembling the flabby excesses of 1980s California. Yet modern incarnations, produced in cooler sites across Casablanca, now rival the best labels from New Zealand, Australia, and Argentina. They are made with restraint and nuance, imitating the skilled artisans of the Côte-d’Or.

Ventisquero Grey Chardonnay is a textbook example. Using fruit sourced from the exceptional Tapihue vineyard (just 25 kilometers east of the Pacific Ocean), oenologist Felipe Tosso produces a very elegant and understated interpretation of the grape. Many critics (including Tim Atkin MW) have considered Tosso one of Chile’s top winemakers, and Tosso can coax Burgundian finesse out of New World Chardonnay.

Indeed, producing great and memorable Chardonnay requires a deft touch in the cellar: at every stage of the winemaking, human inputs can have a decisive impact on what ends up in your glass. Moreover, the Chilean approach to Chardonnay has undergone several profound changes since the 1990s. In brief, it has transitioned from being a rich mouthful of vanilla-infused oak to something far less obvious: a wine born of highly disciplined and selective craftsmanship. This typically involves little or no skin contact, careful pressing, cool fermentation, and maturation in used barrels. It yields a style that resembles Premier Cru Chablis, with a lower content of flavoring phenols, lighter and fresher color, and less oaky sweetness.

Innovative Techniques at Ventisquero

At Ventisquero, the initial handling of the (hand-harvested) fruit is gentle and sensitive – mechanical harvesting can never rival the skill and care shown by dedicated grape pickers. In Burgundy, the broken grapes are usually taken directly from the crusher to the press and pressed without delay. Some winemakers press whole bunches, releasing very clear juice with low levels of phenols. In this case, however, Felipe Tosso prefers to use a cold maceration to extract aromas before the main fermentation can begin. This will take place for about 14 hours in a controlled environment free of oxygen.

Traditionally, most Burgundians relied on wild yeast strains, vinifying their wines in oak barrels at moderately warm temperatures (72-77 °F) during the fall. This will produce a very structured expression of the grape, although higher temperatures can ‘burn out’ some of the flavor and aroma compounds. Mindful of this trade-off, Ventisquero undertakes a slow fermentation at low temperatures, using a mixture of wood (80 percent) and stainless steel. Only 10% new barrique is allowed in the production of Grey Chardonnay, which is highly conservative by the standards of the late 20th century. Once the fermentation is finished, the base wines are aged on their fine lees for 12 months, with regular stirring (bâtonnage) adding texture and richness to the white.

Casablanca: Chile’s Sonoma

Meanwhile, Chile’s top estates continue to source high-quality fruit from Casablanca’s privileged terroirs, with more investors arriving yearly. Syrah, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc are all mightily impressive, while Pinot Noir thrives in the coolest spots on the valley floor.

Casablanca has become Chile’s answer to Sonoma, with the added advantage of lower prices and arguably better wines.

Casablanca gastronomy

Although relatively small in stature, Casablanca city offers a diverse selection of excellent restaurants, many of which boast incredible views of the surrounding landscape. On a vineyard-facing terrace, sip chilled Sauvignon Blanc and peruse the menu—many top chefs, attached to winery venues, use local produce to flex their culinary muscles. Freshly caught seafood, roast lamb, costillas de cerdo (pork ribs), and ceviche de jibia (cuttlefish ceviche) are all major highlights.