Entre-Deux-Mers Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Winemakers in Entre-Deux-Mers have a broad range of appellations at their disposal, and there is often some overlap. For example, one château may produce a range of dry whites that belong to different appellation frameworks, perhaps because the Bordeaux Superieur AOC designation permits one of the varieties used in the blend but not the Entre-Deux-Mers AOC. Therefore, a great deal of wine made in the zone carries a generic label, either Bordeaux or Bordeaux Superieur AOC.

The latter is usually an estate-bottled red, white, or rosé wine, while Bordeaux AOC tout court is often used in generic merchant blends, sold in all good discount stores worldwide. But, there are exceptions to every rule, and some excellent rosé is marketed as ‘everyday’ Bordeaux.

Hidden Gems

There is also a smattering of little-known but historically important subregions that lie between the Dordogne and the Garonne. They include Côtes de Bordeaux St-Macaire (less than 50 hectares planted), Graves de Vayres, Ste-Foy Bordeaux, and Premier Côtes de Bordeaux. The latter is found on the right bank of the Garonne, running from Carbon-Blanc to Langon in the south. The local specialty is sweet white wine production, which is invariably made using the late-harvest method instead of botrytis.

Nevertheless, an influx of newcomers to the zone, attracted to the relatively affordable land prices, has positively impacted quality. Graves de Vayres and Ste-Foy producers shy away from using the appellation badge. Instead, they market most of their wines under the broader Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC banners. This is for one simple reason: when belonging to a very obscure and unknown appellation, it is far easier to label your wine as generic Bordeaux. Consumers have at least heard of that!

Entre-Deux-Mers AOC

Of course, this is not an issue in the sprawling vineyards of Entre-Deux-Mers AOC. It is a well-established piece of Bordeaux real estate, now entitled to produce red and white wines, although most consumers still overwhelmingly associate the AOC with dry white.

The syndicate, particularly Marc Lurton of Château Reynier, has long been concerned about the adoption of a designation for red wines. The best estates, such as the aforementioned Reynier, Bauduc, Bonnet, Girolate, Reignac, and Champ des Treilles, can easily rival Medoc classified growths in terms of equipment and expensive kit.

Winemaking Practices

Therefore, the winemaking is often broadly similar: whites are typically fermented in stainless steel at low temperatures; reds are macerated using pump-overs in oak vats or concrete before being matured in new French oak for at least 12-14 months. The best cuvées are structured, concentrated, and worthy of laying down for a few years. That seldom occurs, however, as Entre-Deux-Mers has no cachet in the secondary market. More’s the pity.

Geography and terroir

The clue is in the name: Entre-Deux-Mers (between the seas, or rivers in this case) encompasses a broad swathe of vineyards situated between the Dordogne and the Garonne. It is a very beautiful and undulating vineyard, quite unlike the bland landscape of the Medoc. It is also an area of great diversity – arable farming exists alongside viticulture and dairy herds in this part of Bordeaux.

Indeed, mixed crops are essential to the economic and social life here; Entre-Deux-Mers has no classified estates and few wealth-generating icon wines. Instead, local properties must survive on their wits, ingenuity, and plenty of hard work!

Varied Terroir

The soils of this large region can also vary significantly. Yet there is a central plateau, rich in limestone deposits, that is responsible for many of the zone’s finest whites: aromatic, zippy, and fruit-driven. To the west of La Sauve, you’ll find more sand and gravel; the eastern section surrounding Martes is rich in alluvial deposits and stony clay-limestone soil.

The main white grape varieties planted in Entre-Deux-Mers are Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, with smaller amounts of Muscadelle and Ugni Blanc/Colombard. Much like Graves, winemakers use Sauvignon Blanc to add freshness and perfume to the blend, while Semillon contributes weight, structure, and longevity. Both varieties thrive on Entre-Deux-Mers’s calcareous terroirs.

Challenges with Red Varietals

However, the ubiquitous Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are a different matter entirely. Driven by a 1950s and 60s frenzy to replace white grapes with late-ripening Cabernet, vineyards planted on unsuitable fertile and cold soils exploded across Entre-Deux-Mers.

This disastrous trend yielded a deluge of insipid and vegetal wines, serving as a harsh reminder of terroir mismatch. In addition, high soil fertility can lead to excessive yields and green tannins in red grapes, two wholly undesirable characteristics. Moreover, the emphasis on mechanization, liberal use of pesticides, and machine harvesting have all done Entre Deux Mer’s reputation no favors.

Fortunately, some quality-conscious growers eschew all of the above. They produce delicious red and white wines by controlling yields, reducing synthetic inputs, and increasing planting density. In 2024, the balance between quality and dross is edging closer to fifty/fifty.

The lowdown

Entre-Deux-Mers represents Bordeaux’s less glamorous and, dare we say it, less commercially viable face. The land that birthed legendary wines like Lafite and Cheval Blanc often goes overlooked. Yet, it quietly produces a massive amount of wine destined for discount supermarket shelves around the globe.

At the turn of the century, booming demand for generic Bordeaux saw a major expansion of vineyards in Entre-Deux-Mers; white varieties were grubbed up as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon became king and queen of the two rivers. Vineyard acreage nearly doubled, driven by the expectation of a booming global market for affordable, and often mediocre, red Bordeaux.

However, it all looks very different today. While the market for blue chip Bordeaux is fairly robust, demand for lower-priced red wines that lack an established cachet has been dwindling. As elsewhere, there are still far too many estates that crop at high yields, using machine-harvested fruit to make a drinkable product yet utterly anonymous product.

Twenty-five years ago, they might have got away with it. Yet ever more confident competition from other wine regions within Europe and the New World has made this business model precarious at best; the consumer tolerance for plonk, regardless of its low price, has also fallen in the 21st century.

The Rise of Quality and Sustainability

But, on the positive side, the best of Entre Deux Mers now offers exceptional value for money. Unlike thirty years ago, there is a burgeoning countermovement to the volume producers that genuinely care about their vines and wine.

Much of the renewed focus is on white wine production – although the overall consumption of red has declined in many countries, aromatic whites, still and sparkling, are the height of fashion in Europe and the US. This is something that Entre-Deux-Mers can excel at, which explains why the planting of Sauvignon Blanc is once again on the rise.

Meanwhile, leading properties have embraced sustainability and the benefits of a more eco-friendly paradigm, greatly reducing the volume of synthetic inputs and spearheading waste and CO2 reduction schemes.

A Destination of Authenticity

It is also a charming and beautiful region to visit; despite the challenging economic context, international expats continue settling in this part of Bordeaux, attracted by its bucolic splendor and affordable land prices. As a result, chic boutique hotels and tasting rooms have sprung up like mushrooms over the past decade, offering a warm welcome and real insights into the world of Bordeaux winemaking. Granted, Entre-Deux-Mers is no Côte d’Azur, yet you’ll find true authenticity (and not a hint of pretension) in these gentle hills.

Entre-Deux-Mers gastronomy

There are many splendid restaurants in the vast expanse of Entre Deux Mers, including some fine options attached to the increasingly tourist-centric winery hotels. One of the most charming villages, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, was founded by Edward I in the 12th century – the erstwhile King of England and Duke of Aquitaine. Today, it is packed full of family-run bistros that serve all the classics: Bordeaux lampreys, oysters a la Arcachon, and Entrecote Bordelaise.

A Gastronomy Guide to the Cusine of Bordeaux: Read more