Ainhoa Travel Guide

Ainhoa is one of France’s most beautiful villages and has received this official accolade, which it deserves most. If the village were up for sale tomorrow, it would make a fortune on the location alone: nestled in the French Pyrénées region, which boasts some of Europe’s most splendid alpine scenery. It is one of the French Basque’s most beautiful gems, a charming destination in its own right, and a stone’s throw away from the glamorous coastal town of St Jean de Luz and the national parks and skiing of the Pyrénées mountain range.

Like most Basque country, this picturesque village has an early history shrouded in mystery. The first Basque settlers enjoyed an isolated existence on the Atlantic coast, primarily sheltered from outside influences. This all changed with the arrival of the Romans, who conquered Gaul (France) in the 1st century AD. This part of France was named Aquitania, or Aquitaine, by the Roman conquerors and remained under their control for centuries until the Western Empire collapsed in the 5th century.

Following the disintegration of Roman rule in France, the province of Aquitania came under the control of the Visigoth tribes from northern Europe. They, in turn, lost power to the Franks, and the Vikings captured the resort town of Biarritz in 840. Their hold over the Basque province ended in 982 when the Basque Duke William II Sanchez of Gascony defeated the Vikings in a battle for Biarritz. One of his first tasks was reintroducing Christianity to the region; monasteries soon sprung up throughout the Basque country. However, Ainhoa was only first mentioned officially in writing as a parish in the 13th century.

In the Middle Ages, Ainhoa was mainly under English control following the marriage between Henry II of England and Eleanor of Aquitaine. The King suddenly had power over the French provinces of Aquitaine and Gascony, giving him lucrative control over a key part of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. Ainhoa had long been an essential stop on the pilgrims’ path to Santiago, as many of the routes from France converged on the village, and tolls were charged to allow pilgrims to continue through to Spain. In 1238, the Navarrese King Theobald I purchased these toll rights, the village being right on the Aquitaine/Navarrese border. After that, tensions rose between the two neighboring states, and many military clashes occurred over the decades. In 1280, the ruler of Ainhoa officially recognized the suzerainty of the Duchy of Aquitaine, and tensions subsided.

However, the next century was marked by unrest and turbulence as during the 100 Years’ War, the French King Philip IV battled Edward I for control of the region. Philip kept control of the province until the Treaty of Paris in 1303; after that, it was part of the English throne. In the 17th century, the Spanish invaded the French Basque coast during the Thirty Years War, and Ainhoa was destroyed following a bloody battle for the territory. The village was rebuilt following the peace-affirming marriage between Maria Theresa of Spain and Louis XIV of France. All that remained from the destruction were the village’s church and the Machitorénéa House.

The 18th century was mainly a peaceful and prosperous time for the residents of Ainhoa, although several important events did take place during the period. In 1724, the residents of Ainhoa protested against a new salt tax, damaging their lucrative livelihood from mining, which was the mainstay of Ainhoa’s economy for many years. 1726, a massive uprising took place, and the taxes were overturned. Indeed, the French Basque region and Ainhoa enjoyed much self-determination for most of the 1700s. However, the French Revolution and subsequent abolition of the monarchy centralized the government. France’s First Republic was proclaimed, and local privileges granted by the old regime were abolished.

Ainhoa was directly affected by the outbreak of the Napoleonic wars in Europe in the 19th century. In 1813, when Napoleon’s army retreated from Spain, villages along the Basque coast were attacked and pillaged as revenge, including Ainhoa, by British and Spanish troops. During the 2nd World War, Ainhoa was under German military control as part of Vichy France, and the Nazis administered the entire Atlantic coast. However, many brave inhabitants of these Basque villages still managed to help British soldiers and French resistance fighters escape across the border to Spain.

Today, Ainhoa remains a must-visit destination on the beautiful and tranquil French Basque coast. The setting could not be better, and lovers of scenic landscapes and the outdoors are sure to fall rapidly in love with the village at first sight. Indeed, the mountains dominate life in the French Pyrénées, and in many ways, despite being in France, Ainhoa feels much closer to Spain in lifestyle and culture. The village oozes charm with its timbered, painted wood houses, beautiful churches, and delightful cafes and restaurants. It’s a destination where you are guaranteed rest and relaxation!