Sarlat-la-Canéda Travel Guide

Few other towns in the picturesque Dordogne area of southwest France combine the region’s charms and Sarlat with its food, wine, and history. Sarlat’s narrow, atmospheric streets, historic buildings, and delightful cafe-filled squares are a supreme pleasure. Indeed, part of its universal appeal lies in its perfectly preserved medieval town center, which has changed little over the last century thanks to strict laws enacted in 1962. It is simply a historic destination that has it all: a proud gastronomic tradition, a completely intact rich architectural legacy, beautiful surrounding countryside, and enough cafes, bars, and restaurants to keep any visitor happy!

Sarlat’s origins are shrouded with mystery, but we know that the settlement existed long after the Roman conquest of Gaul and the subsequent collapse of the western Roman empire in the 5th century. Historians believe that the impetus for the settlements’ growth was an important Benedictine Abbey, mentioned in monastic writings in 1081. During the 9th century, Vikings from northern Scandinavia would raid French coastal towns and venture into the Dordogne River, ransacking settlements within reach. However, the town’s remoteness, over 35 miles from the banks of the river, escaped the Viking hoards and enjoyed a peaceful existence for many centuries.

The Sarlat monastic estate remained independent from French rule into the 12th century. The Vatican controlled the territory, which included the modern-day cities of Agen and Toulouse. Its religious importance for Christians across France ensured its freedom; in 1181, the French King, Philip Augustus, pledged his commitment to protecting the city from attack. Then, in the 14th century, Pope John XXII elevated the abbey’s Church to a Cathedral and started renovating the Cathedral Saint Sacerdos to the ornate Gothic masterpiece we see today. With its religious importance and fame spreading, Sarlat’s continued prosperity and growth seemed assured.

Sadly, the advent of the Great Plague at the end of the 13th century killed over half of Sarlat’s population; this and the Hundred Years Wars between the Capetian rulers of Paris and the Anglo-Normans would bring more turbulence to the town’s citizens. However, while the town did serve as a base of operations for French soldiers, it was never once subject to a siege or forcefully taken by the English. As a result of the Treaty of Bretigny, enforced from 1360, Sarlat was under English jurisdiction until 1370, when Constable Bertrand du Guesclin rallied the towns’ citizens to resist English rule.

After that, Sarlat would enter a golden age of peace, growth, and prosperity, as the now thriving town benefited from trade along the Dordogne route and as a significant center of religious significance in France. Pilgrims would journey far and wide to marvel at its splendid Abbey and Cathedral while the town’s rapidly growing middle class built grand mansions to display their new-found wealth.

However, despite the seemingly never-ending prosperity, these good times were interrupted by the arrival of the French Wars of Religion in the 16th century. During this period, the French aristocracy began supporting secular over religious rule; many battles were fought between Catholics and Protestants over the century. Protestant supporters took Sarlat in February 1574 and then recaptured by Catholics in the space of just under three months! Subsequently, the Protestant supporter Viscount of Turenne laid siege to Sarlat and destroyed most of the town’s walls and defenses. Ultimately, though, he was unsuccessful, and the Wars of Religion ended with the conversion of Henri IV to Catholicism in 1593.

The subsequent turmoil of the French Revolution of 1789, which overthrew the ruling aristocracy, did little to affect the day-to-day lives of Sarlat’s citizens. The town was never directly involved in the fighting, and no battles occurred within its walls. As a result, Sarlat continued to prosper in the 19th century; many important public works were built, including the town’s first railway station in 1882, with a direct link to Bordeaux City. This move was crucial in ending Sarlat’s remoteness, although this geographical isolation preserved its beautiful medieval streets and character.

Sarlat greeted the 20th century with great optimism, which not even the outbreak of two World Wars could dampen. Once again benefiting from its geographical remoteness, Sarlat was not directly affected by the conflicts. After the Second World War ended, the town quickly started to attract large numbers of visitors, keen to view its heritage. A crucial moment came in 1962 when the then Minister of Culture Andre Malraux instigated a decree to protect the town’s historic center from future development.

Today, Sarlat remains one of southwest Frances’ most popular holiday destinations, drawing many visitors each year who marvel at its beautiful architecture and majestic splendor, not to mention the spectacular landscape of the Dordogne. It is also the host of a famous film festival, which takes place in November. Indeed, lovers of art, culture, history, gastronomy and people who just want to sit, enjoy a glass of wine, and relax are more than catered to in this alluring and romantic town. Just ask the numerous directors and stars who have produced films in this lovely location, including Ridley Scott and Andy Tennant.