Often ignored in favor of Tuscany and Umbria, Le Marche boasts a rich cultural heritage and scenery to die for. Yet this part of Italy has been oddly inert in viticulture, prevented from realizing its full potential due to poverty and geographical isolation. However, the last few decades have seen a rise in local prosperity, while Marche wines are finally beginning to make their mark on the global market. Now respected for its red and white styles, Le Marche’s winegrowing potential was first spotted by the Piceni more than 2000 years ago. They were attracted to its superior soils and climate, much like the vignerons of today! Moreover, as international sommeliers and buyers get on board, the region is expanding beyond domestic consumption—a major transformation beckons.
Vines were planted in Le Marche hundreds of years before the first Roman soldier set foot on the Adriatic coast. In the ancient period, the region was inhabited by a tribe known as the Piceni; remnants of their once proud culture can be seen in the town of Ascoli Piceno, displayed at the archaeological museum. However, the region became a Roman municipality in the 3rd century BC. During this era, viticulture spread to all corners of central Italy, greatly encouraged by the wine-obsessed Romans. Indeed, Le Marche and its environs were dominated by the forces of Rome for almost 700 years. But as Rome tightened its iron grip in the face of increasing attacks, rival civilizations plotted its downfall.
Eventually, the Western Roman Empire collapsed into anarchy and chaos in AD 476. After it fell, Le Marche was attacked by the Goths, Vandals, and the Ostrogoths; the Roman Empire was split into two in the 5th century, as Rome could not stem the tide of Germanic invaders as they migrated southwards. In the years after AD 535, however, the Eastern Empire (known as Byzantine) reconquered most of Italy. Its stronghold, Ravenna, was situated in Le Marche’s neighbor, Emilia-Romagna. It became one of Europe’s wealthiest and most influential regions, although most of the peninsula was subsequently lost to the Lombards, who invaded in 564.
The Lombards controlled the Italian Peninsula for two centuries until Pope Stephen II decided to eject these Germanic heathens from the epicenter of the Christian faith. Yet the papacy lacked a standing army and could not accomplish this alone. Thus, Pope Stephen called upon the strongest of Europe’s rising powers to oust the ungodly Lombards from Italy’s borders. The Franks answered the call; first to lead the charge was the appropriately named Pepin the Short. But, the diminutive leader failed to accomplish the task – his taller son Charlemagne banished the Lombards in 773. On Christmas Day in 800, Charlemagne was crowned the first Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
Meanwhile, viticulture flourished across the fertile landscape of Le Marche. By the Middle Ages, winegrowing, organized by the Cistercian and Benedictine Monks, was the exclusive domain of the church in many European regions. One of Marche’s most important cities, Urbino, reached its zenith in the 1400s under the rule of the philosopher warrior Federico da Montefeltro, who commissioned the building of the Palazzo Ducale in 1444. Yet after the death of Charlemagne, the Guelphs (who supported papal rule) and the Ghibellines (who supported the Emperor) caused bloody mayhem in Le Marche. After many years of fighting, the region became part of the Papal State in 1600 – the Guelphs had won. It was not until the Italian Unification of 1861 that the papacy lost control of Le Marche. In the latter half of the 20th century, industrialization and rising investment helped to modernize the region’s wine industry and make it internationally competitive. However, global success is still some way off, although Le Marche has made enormous strides in recent years.
Geography and terroir
Sandwiched between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, Le Marche is a spectacularly beautiful place to make wine. Inland from the Adriatic coastline are a myriad of distinct wine regions, bordered by Umbria to the west (separated by the Apennines) and Abruzzo to the south. Moreover, while the coastline may be relatively flat, the hinterland’s pretty green hills yield wines of remarkable freshness and verve, thanks partly to the variations in altitude that characterize the best sites in Le Marche. Indeed, the combined influence of the Apennines, the Adriatic, and four rivers – Metauro, Potenza, Tronto, and Nera – creates a patchwork of macroclimates that range from temperate to very warm. Meanwhile, regional soils include significant outcrops of limestone and clay, perfect for cultivating red and white grapes. These terroirs help to retain vital moisture in the summer yet are well-drained enough to avoid waterlogged terrain in the fall and spring; vines do not like ‘wet feet’!
Historically, Marche’s greatest wines were the crisp Verdicchio whites of Castelli di Jesi to the west of Ancona. That is still the case today: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOCG runs the whole gamut from light, saline beauties to more structured and concentrated whites of real class. In the traditional Classico zone, top producers like Umani and Ronchi market a small volume of prestige bottlings – oak-aged Verdicchio offers freshness and power. It reaches an apogee when served alongside Adriatic shellfish; the smaller Verdicchio di Matelica appellation is less established than its neighbor. Yet the zone’s high-elevation climats (vineyard sites) yield particularly fragrant and zippy expressions of the Verdicchio grape, again perfect with seafood.
Meanwhile, the pale, dry whites of Bianchello del Metauro are a specialty of the Matauro River valley. They are pleasantly crisp and fruity, although Bianchello is not a grape for the long haul. A growing number of wineries are also dabbling in international varieties, not least Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc). The best examples are ripe, hazelnut-scented concoctions of fruit and oak.
But Montepulciano is the king of red wines in this part of the Adriatic coast rather than Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Its greatest successes are found in the Rosso Conero DOC, an appellation that flanks the city of Ancona. Vines planted on calcareous soils yield deliciously fruit-rich, and perfumed wines occasionally enlivened with a dash (maximum 15%) of Sangiovese. Rosso Piceno adheres to a similar formula, blending juicy Montepulciano grapes with the more piquant and acidic Sangiovese to create medium-bodied reds of good character. If the yields are kept low, and the wine is judiciously matured in barrel, they are an attractive – and good value – alternative to the Tuscan superstars.
Lastly, the sparkling wines of Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG are among the most esoteric in Europe today. Just 25 hectares are dedicated to producing this local curiosity from a variety genetically identical to Grenache, Vernaccia Nera. Cultivated at altitudes that rise to 600 meters above sea level, the area’s vineyards are found on the lower slopes of the Apennines close to the border with Umbria. Due to the region’s diurnal temperature variation, Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is renowned for its crisp acidity and intense flavors of crushed red fruits. It bears no comparison with any other wine style – an authentic slice of Italian history first mentioned in Dante’s Divine Comedy.
Le Marche’s viticultural scene is changing fast. Once, the region was defined by its apathy and inertia; mass-produced wine was the region’s USP, sold to bulk shippers and supermarkets at a derisory cost. The large cooperatives and big businesses stymied any attempts to overturn this regrettable situation. However, this small and beautiful region is riding high in 2023, buoyed by significant investment and a cultural shift towards quality in the cellars of its family-run wineries. With the European appetite for cheap plonk rapidly diminishing, growers realized they had to act.
The results of their endeavors are all around us. The quality of both Verdicchio and Montepulciano has soared in recent years. At the same time, global recognition for these thrilling wines has been augmented by rising interest from visiting buyers and key influencers. The value of international exports is growing, and producers are now familiar at the world’s leading trade fairs and symposiums. Meanwhile, the green and organic movement is strong: big, skin-macerated natural wines remain a trend with their funky flavors and amber color. Yet the critical mass of Marche whites are fresh as a daisy and packed full of fruit – precisely what most consumers want.
But most importantly, the urge to sample a wider range of styles and move beyond familiar labels is constantly growing. Some wineries are dragging their heels and refusing to swim with the tide. However, they no longer represent the critical mass. Wine tourism is also a strong factor in this ongoing renaissance, especially in Ancona and the beautiful Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini.
Yet it’s not all good news in the hills of Marche. In 2023 year, a row developed over the Montepulciano grape, specifically, the right to reference the grape variety on the label. Only the Italians could go to war over a nomenclature: Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture has been lobbied by producers in neighboring Abruzzo, as growers demanded exclusive rights to the term “Montepulciano.” The proposed solution for neighboring regions cultivating the grape is to use an ancient synonym, “Cordisco,” when labeling their wines. But, as the term has not been used for over a hundred years, this will likely confuse wine drinkers; moreover, winegrowers in Le Marche also have a strong historical claim to promote red wines labeled as Montepulciano. This thorny issue, and the strong feelings it arouses, is unlikely to be resolved any time soon.
Key Grape Varietals
Biancame (Bianchello)
Biancame is a white grape variety central to Marche's aromatic Bianchello di Metauro wines, distinct from Passerina. Grown primarily in the Metauro River valley, this mid to late-ripening grape requires careful canopy management. Bianchello wines are pale yellow, delicately dry, and aromatic, embodying Marche's refreshing white wine style.
Ciliegiolo, a red grape from central and northwestern Italy, is gaining popularity in Liguria and Tuscany. It's featured in various Italian DOCs, including Chianti, and has seen a rise in varietal IGT wines since 2000. Known for its cherry-like color and aroma, Ciliegiolo adds freshness and liveliness to wines, catering to the demand for early-drinking yet characterful wines. The grape requires careful cultivation due to mildew susceptibility.
Lacrima di Morro
Lacrima, a grape from Italy's Marche, stars in the aromatic Lacrima di Morro d'Alba DOC wines. Known for floral, spicy aromas and a berry palate, its name reflects its berries' tendency to split. Its early 20th-century decline was due to pest susceptibility and cultivation issues. It saw a revival after 1985's DOC recognition. Lacrima flourishes in sunny sites, offering aromatic intensity and balanced wines with soft tannins.
Vernaccia Nera, a rare grape from Marche's Serrapetrona, spans only 45 hectares. Possibly named after the Latin for "spring" or "local vine," it's genetically linked to Grenache. Used in Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG, a red sparkling wine, it requires partially drying the grapes. The grape has black-purple berries and tight clusters. It's vigorous, late-ripening, and high-yielding. The wine is ruby-red, with a vinous scent, fresh, medium-bodied taste, and a slightly bitter finish.
Marche gastronomy
Uncork a bottle of Verdicchio and savor the heady aroma of fresh seafood caught that day from the Adriatic. Both the interior and the sea play a vital role in Le Marche’s food culture – its pasta, white truffles, Prosciutto di Carpegna, and Ciauscolo (spreadable salami sausage) are all divine. Local highlights include Vincisgrassi (a regional variation on lasagne) and tagliatelle served with shaved Acqualagna white truffles. Meanwhile, the local fish stew is the perfect summer treat: garlic, onions, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and a medley of saltwater fish are slowly braised for hours. You’ll need plenty of fresh bread to mop up the sauce.
A Guide to Le Marche Cuisine and Gastronomy: Read more
Sartarelli crafts acclaimed Verdicchio in Marche since '94, with artisan methods yielding distinct, flavorful wines, led by their flagship Balciana. Read more
Author
James lawrence
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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