The town of Asti in northwestern Italy’s Piedmont region has long been synonymous with fruity sparkling wine: light, fresh, and eminently quaffable. Unfortunately, the production of this iconic style is dominated by the big Asti houses, which display scant regard for quality – over 80 million bottles are made and shipped to supermarkets each year.
Yet, the number of smaller producers is growing, and they are showing a remarkable commitment to revitalizing Asti’s premium reputation on the world stage. Their dedication is evident in the promotion of some excellent traditional method wines alongside the cheap-and-cheerful plonk.
Moreover, there is more to Asti than simply the Muscat grape. Indeed, it is a major wine center of Piedmont, lending its name to several key appellations and styles; the suffix “d’Asti” appears in several guises, including Barbera d’Asti and the underrated (but up-and-coming) Dolcetto d’Asti.
But, from an economic and cultural perspective, Moscato d’Asti is the most important DOCG in the undulating landscape of central Piedmont.
Introduced by the ancient Greeks (Moscato derives from the Hellenic word for musk), the grape has been cultivated on the Italian Peninsula for over two millennia. While Prosecco enjoys a greater profile in international markets, Asti Spumante has a far more established historical pedigree.
The question is: With its rich history and the growing number of smaller producers, can Asti Spumante reinvent itself for the 21st century?
The handsome town of Asti is surrounded by an evocative landscape of vines, rolling hills, and distant mountaintops. Within this snapshot of Piedmontese rural life are several key appellations whose geographical boundaries often overlap: the vineyards of Barbera d’Asti, for example, extend into the Moscato d’Asti zone, located further south.
Wineries have planted approximately 9700 hectares of Muscat Blanc á Petits Grain, 3900 hectares of Barbera, and 230 hectares of Dolcetto.
Today, approximately 9700 hectares of Muscat Blanc á Petits Grain are planted, in addition to 3900 hectares of Barbera and 230 hectares of Dolcetto. Producers cultivate Dolcetto in a relatively small geographical area located southeast of Asti in the famous Langhe hills that flank the iconic terroirs of Barolo and Barbaresco.
However, there is a great deal of overlap – it can be challenging to pinpoint precisely where Barbera d’Asti begins and Dolcetto ends!
Focus on Sparkling Wine Production
However, sparkling wine production is the main focus of life in the hills of Asti, built around Piedmont’s signature white variety. Indeed, the wine is made entirely from Moscato grapes, cultivated in 53 communes throughout the provinces of Asti, Cuneo, and Alessandria in northwest Italy. Here, one encounters a broad variance in growing conditions, with significant differences in soil, elevation, and aspect.
In extreme cases, vineyard sites rise to over 600 meters above sea level, though many sit between 300 and 400 meters. These altitudes make it easier to maintain wine freshness; Piedmont is renowned for its cold winters and hot, dry summers. And Asti is no exception.
Yet the terroir is highly conducive to quality wine growing—any deficiencies in mass-market Asti derive from excessive yields and winemaking, not unsuitable terrain. This is especially true of the clay-limestone soils around Casale Monferrato and south of Canelli.
Meanwhile, vineyards closer to the River Tanaro tend to have more sand in the topsoil, a product of millions of years of climate shifts and gradual erosion.
Rules and Terroir Promotion
The DOCG rules allow mentioning certain subzones, including Canelli, Santa Vittoria d’Alba, and Strevi, on bottle labels. In reality, however, the major houses and their investors show little interest in promoting terroir.
Most Asti wines are regional blends, often reliant on grapes sourced from a wide geographical area.
That said, blind tastings can detect stylistic differences; growers in Alessandria tend to produce Asti Spumante with higher alcohol and lower acidity levels due to the warmer mesoclimate.
Meanwhile, Castiglione Tinella wines often showcase vibrant aromatics and great freshness, two valuable qualities when producing Moscato fizz. As elsewhere, the most prized climats are typically planted on steep hillsides – vineyards that benefit from good exposure and diurnal temperature variation.
Winemaking and regional classifications
There are four principal wine styles made in the Asti region: Barbera d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Asti, Moscato d’Asti, and Asti (formerly Asti Spumante). The first is covered in extensive detail here, and the second is relatively straightforward. But Moscato d’Asti and Asti generate no end of confusion among professionals and drinkers!
Thankfully, that is not the case with Dolcetto. The third red grape of Piedmont yields utterly delicious wine in the province of Asti – dense and fruity. It has long dominated vineyards in the hills between Alba and the coast, but growers have replaced certain parcels with Nebbiolo due to its higher price per kilo.
DOC Requirements
Nevertheless, many stay loyal to the grape, partly because it is relatively easy to grow. Under the DOC framework, all Dolcetto d’Asti must be a mono-varietal wine aged for a minimum of 12 months if the grower aspires to Superiore status.
However, attitudes and approaches to vinifying Dolcetto vary significantly in terms of winemaking. One school of thought emphasizes protecting fruit and finesse: the berries are crushed, chilled, and fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks.
A relatively brief maceration yields an expressive, fruity wine that showcases the ripe blackberry and plum flavors. Dolcetto translates into “little sweet one”—an apt description.
Yet, its nickname can also be misleading: Dolcetto’s dark skins contain a fair amount of tannin and coloring pigments, unlike Pinot Noir. These qualities can be accentuated via whole bunch fermentation and a lengthier post-fermentation maceration – some producers age their Dolcetto in oak to beef up the structure and complexity.
However, old Burgundy barrels or Slavonian oak are usually the vessels of choice: one hundred percent new barrique rarely flatters Dolcetto.
Meanwhile, the production of Asti Spumante, a unique sparkling wine, is a process steeped in tradition. The regional boundaries for Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti are the same, but the taste profile can be quite different. Asti Spumante is a sweet, fully sparkling wine with 7-9% alcohol, made in industrial conditions.
Large volumes of grapes are pressed, extracting a maximum of 75 liters of juice from 100kg of grapes. The must is then fined and filtered before being chilled to zero degrees. In a tradition unique to Asti, the must is kept chilled until the producer requires new stock.
Characteristics of Asti
In the case of Asti, an initial fermentation will take place in stainless steel until the alcohol reaches five percent. A second vinification will occur at higher temperatures (normally 68˚F), dissolving CO2 into the wine.
When the alcohol reaches approximately 9% ABV, it will be filtered and bottled under pressure with a large amount of residual sugar. Sugary-sweet and quaffable fizz for those who find Prosecco too dry!
However, although Asti and Moscato d’Asti can be produced from the same base must, the scale of production is very different. Quality-focused wineries make a relatively small amount of Moscato compared to its more famous sibling, using the ‘cuve-close,’ or Asti, method to create a very gentle sparkling wine with low pressure.
As a result, the wine does not undergo a second fermentation in tank and is bottled after the alcohol reaches 5 percent. The primary vinification will dissolve a modest amount of carbon dioxide into the wine – the French call this style pétillant.
These wines are best consumed young – the first wines of the vintage often arrive on shelves less than two months after the harvest. At its best, Moscato d’Asti is a delicious sparkling wine: light as a feather and very fragrant. Sadly, there is a tendency to deride sweeter styles in wine circles, albeit it is undoubtedly true that mass-market Asti is dreary stuff.
Yet small-scale Moscato can be an incredible bargain. Its fine mousse, stone fruit aromas, and luscious sweetness are custom-built for the dessert course. Moreover, the price undercuts top-end Sauternes by a significant margin.
While both Asti and Moscato d’Asti share the same grape variety, they differ in style and production methods. Asti is a fully sparkling wine with higher carbonation and typically higher alcohol content, making it more effervescent and robust. Moscato d’Asti, on the other hand, is lightly sparkling (frizzante) and has a lower alcohol content, often around 5-6%, which allows the natural sweetness and aromatic profile of the Moscato Bianco grape to shine through more delicately.
At the end of the 19th century, the selected territory for Moscato Bianco was limited to “those hills and valleys” bordered to the north by Asti and the Tanaro River, to the south by the Bormida River, forming, together, an area that can rightly be referred to as the territory of Moscato. Within this area – defined by Strucchi, author of an important monograph on this vine – “by far, the most important”, there can be found “a series of neighboring Municipalities” where Moscato is purposely cultivated, frequently bearing excellent fruits. Among the municipalities listed by Strucchi are Calosso, Canelli, Castiglione Tinella, Mango and Santo Stefano Belbo, constituting what would later be known as the homeland of Moscato d’Asti D.O.C.G.
Michele Chiarlo’s Moscato d’Asti
We produce two Moscato d’Asti wines: the Moscato d’Asti DOCG Nivole and the Canelli DOCG Moscato P Nivole. Each wine offers a unique expression of the Moscato Bianco grape, showcasing the diversity and excellence of this variety.
The uniqueness of our Moscato d’Asti lies in the combination of traditional methods and innovative techniques, the exceptional terroir of the Canelli subzone, and the meticulous care given to vineyard management and winemaking. The result is a Moscato d’Asti that captures the essence of the region’s heritage while offering a fresh, modern expression that stands out on the global stage. The balance of sweetness, acidity, and aromatic complexity, coupled with the delicate effervescence, makes Michele Chiarlo’s Moscato d’Asti a distinctive and celebrated choice.
Recommended Food Pairings
Our Moscato d’Asti wines, particularly P Nivole, are incredibly versatile when it comes to food pairings. The lively acidity and natural sweetness make them excellent companions for fruit-based desserts, such as fruit tarts and sorbets. They also pair well with traditional Italian pastries like panettone and pandoro. Interestingly, their freshness and subtle sweetness can also complement spicy Asian dishes, providing a delightful contrast to the heat and complexity of the cuisine. Additionally, the savory note in P Nivole makes it a surprising yet perfect match for gorgonzola and other blue cheeses.
Barbera, a prominent northern Italian grape, is best known for its role in Piedmont's Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti wines, producing fresh, light-bodied reds with low tannins. While closely associated with Piedmont alongside Nebbiolo and Dolcetto, Barbera grows in various Italian regions, including Emilia-Romagna, Puglia, Campania, Sicily, and Sardinia.
Asti is no slouch in the culinary department despite its relatively small size. Pay a visit to the Campo del Palio on the weekend, and you’ll see what we mean: a glorious food market awaits, with everything from white truffles (when in season) to veal sausages.
Meanwhile, the centro storico has more than its fair share of excellent osterie, serving fresh pasta, exquisite risotto, and the always divine filetto di manzo (beef tenderloin with a red wine sauce).
A Gastronomic Guide to the Cuisine of Piedmont: Read more
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
If you would like us to customize an exclusive luxury tour, contact us and let us know your travel plans. We offer luxury food and wine tours for private groups of a mininium two guests. In addition, all of our private, chauffeured tours are available year-round upon request.
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