Barbera d’Asti Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The second best-known red of northwest Italy, Barbera d’Asti, takes its name from a pretty village located to the west of Alessandria. Over 3800 hectares of vines are cultivated in the appellation, extending from Asti to neighboring Alessandria and Cuneo to the southwest.

Indeed, this is a very expansive region, with significant variances in soil, aspect, and elevation. It encompasses 167 towns in Piedmont, ranging from the picturesque to the humdrum. Nonetheless, as growers in Asti have shown, there is no paucity of exceptional terroir in the hills of Piedmont.

Shifting Focus in Vineyard Practices

Historically, the most promising climats (vineyard sites) were reserved for Nebbiolo and its highly prestigious wines. This is perfectly understandable: the average price per kilo of berries is far higher, and the market will tolerate paying a premium for iconic appellations such as Barolo.

Yet, recently, winegrowers have been paying more attention to Barbera, picking later and selecting warmer sites with better exposure – Barbera needs plenty of sunshine to ensure the acidity is palatable.

That said, a hat trick of very warm vintages – 2019, 2020, and 2021 – resulted in rich fruit and, in some cases, excessive alcohol. Today, a lack of freshness and acidity is the bane of winegrowers across southern Europe, as climate change upends growing seasons and creates new viticultural hazards.

Adapting to Climate Challenges

Still, producers in Asti are more than capable of rising to the challenge. The landscape is reminiscent of Tuscany: gently rolling hills provide shelter and exposure, with elevation rising to over 600 meters above sea level in some places. However, growers are not allowed to plant vines at altitudes of over 650 meters – cultivating Barbera on the valley floor is also prohibited.

This conventional wisdom, i.e., Barbera, can not be expected to ripen in such chilly microclimates, but it may be re-examined in light of global warming. In the meantime, growers find it advantageous to ripen Barbera at elevations of between 300 to 400 meters. At these altitudes, ripeness and freshness walk hand in hand. The climate, meanwhile, shows many continental flourishes, with cold winters and warm-to-hot summers.

Terroir as the Kingmaker in Asti

Of course, terroir is the ultimate kingmaker in Asti. The area benefits from several different soil types: calcareous marls yield structured and concentrated reds in the northern section of the appellation, particularly around Casale Monferrato and to the south of Canelli.

However, the sandier soils that flank the River Tanaro and the Po produce a very different interpretation of the Barbera grape: soft and juicy wines with moderate levels of tannin and extract. Some winemakers avoid grapes from these lighter soils with a dismissive attitude that verges on snobbery. But are lighter styles really the ignoble face of Barbera d’Asti? We would argue not.

Nevertheless, it is inarguable that power and structure are easier to find in the clay-limestone terroirs of the appellation, while higher yields can result from the more fertile, loamy soils that contain large amounts of silt and sand. Asti also has two legally recognized subzones: Tinella and Astiano or Colli Astiani. The highly regarded territory of Nizza was awarded its own appellation in 2014. This DOCG remains the most reliable and trusted source of exceptional Barbera in northern Italy, bar none.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Barbera is a chameleon grape: flexible and highly malleable. As a result, local styles run the gamut from light and juicy reds to oak-aged beauties, dark in color and rich in extract. Producers often make the former relatively quickly and painlessly, using premium-quality fruit fermented in stainless steel or concrete at relatively low temperatures.

After a short period of aging in tank, the wine is fined, filtered, and bottled; a soft and approachable red emerges, designed for early drinking. This interpretation of Barbera has proven a significant hit in northern Italy’s enoteche (wine bars) – it provides quality drinking at an attractive price.

Barbera in Italian Culinary Culture

Moreover, it’s bright fruit and lively acidity are the perfect accompaniment to a broad range of bar snacks that turn the aperitivo into an apericena moment. This tradition of enjoying plates of cheese and charcuterie has become very popular among younger Italians, especially if dinner is beyond their financial means. Besides, it can be a lot more fun!

Yet in Turin and Milan’s more prestigious Michelin establishments, Barbera can also serve as a (worthy) substitute for Nebbiolo. The sommelier will likely select a premium example, matured in barrique for at least six months, to qualify for Superiore status.

Furthermore, every single bottle of Barbera d’Asti must contain at least 90 percent Barbera, with a minimum of 12 percent alcohol. Winemakers age superior wines for a minimum of 14 months before release, offering both high quality and relative value, unlike the single-vineyard crus of Barolo and Barbaresco.

In addition, producers must age wines from the Tinella and Astiano subzones for two years before selling them. Again, the DOCG council stipulates a minimum of six months in barrel, although many growers leave their wines in wood for at least one year.

The lowdown

Once maligned as Nebbiolo’s poor relation, Barbera now commands immense respect from producers and critics alike. Indeed, it is increasingly seen as a viable alternative to the often expensive (and undeniably sublime) red wines of Barolo despite the latter’s impressive renown and global cachet.

But with inflation eating into profit margins everywhere, sommeliers and buyers have been searching for better-value alternatives.

Julien Beltzung, executive sommelier at The Glenturret Lalique hotel in Scotland observes:

“The cost of importing wine remains relatively high. It’s becoming more challenging to source, affecting our wine selection and the bar offerings. So finding wines that offer excellent value for money is crucial,”

He also said

“As sommeliers, expanding our knowledge and exploring new grape varieties and appellations that offer good value without compromising quality is now essential.”

Barbera d’Asti’s Value and Appeal

Barbera is such a wine. A good bottle of Barbera d’Asti Superiore is probably the most intelligent purchase you can make in Piedmont – superlative quality at under $25. No longer obscured by Nebbiolo’s immense popularity, Barbera shines in blind tastings when prejudice – and preconceptions – are diluted by the forces of anonymity.

To quote from one of my recent set of tasting notes:

“Tangy and appetizing red with an attractive bouquet of blackberries, plum, and violets – brisk acidity suggests this could be Barbera. The mid-palate is no less expressive, with crunchy red fruit and moderate tannins. Notes of vanilla and cedar indicate that some oak has been used to bolster the structure and complexity. A delicious drop.”

The impatient among you, meanwhile, will love the upfront fruit and soft tannins of a good Barbera d’Asti wine. Indeed, even the best reds can be drunk with enormous pleasure when young, although some of the most prestigious labels gain enormously in character by keeping for longer. As a rule, the wines of Nizza and Tinella will improve in the bottle for at least 5-7 years, especially if oak has been used.

In the 20th century, winemakers could overindulge their fetish for new French barrique, spoiling Barbera’s fruity exuberance. In those increasingly distant days, some of the wines were truly awful—oaky soups.

However, a growing band of producers, especially in the subzones, now keep fruit and oak in perfect balance. They’ve grasped that wood cannot save a mediocre wine, although it can give support and structure to the appellation’s growing number of serious reds. All told, this represents the bargain of the century.

Asti gastronomy

Asti is one of the most beautiful towns in Piedmont, renowned for its charming old quarter and ‘Campo del Palio’ square. Every weekend, the piazza welcomes a diverse mix of food and drink producers selling their wares – savor the heady smells of white truffle, veal sausages, local cheeses, bagna cauda (a mixture of anchovies, garlic, and olive oil), and roasted hazelnuts in this foodie paradise. Afterward, head to one of Asti’s superb restaurants for a very long and leisurely lunch – Barbera included!

A Guide to the Gastronomy and Cuisine of Piedmont: Read more