The Loire Valley has Sancerre, Galicia has Albariño, and Piedmont has Cortese di Gavi to shout about. These exceptional white wines deliver freshness, fruit, and vitality in every bottle and sip. Achingly on-trend and impossible to dislike, Gavi has captured the imagination of consumers and buyers across the Italian Peninsula.
Yet, Cortese di Gavi is not only about instant gratification and summer refreshment. Produced in the hills south of Alessandria in northwestern Italy, Gavi is also renowned for its sparkling wines and oak-aged whites that have more in common with Godello – or even perhaps Chardonnay – than Sauvignon Blanc.
It is also a region with a long and proud history of vine cultivation; legend states that the name Gavi was derived from a princess who lived in the time of the Frankish Kings at the height of the Dark Ages. This daughter of King Chlodomer moved to Gavi to escape his wrath after she married in secret. Cortese di Gavi is said to be a monument to her beauty and bravery. But, we feel it is a monument to the exceptional soils – and human talent- that continues to put Cortese di Gavi on the international fine wine map.
The production of Cortese di Gavi has a great deal in common with Sauvignon Blanc – both Sancerre and the multitude of New World variants. After all, aromatic dry whites require a deft touch in the winery: protective handling and cool fermentations are used worldwide to produce fruit-forward wine styles that appeal to modern audiences. And Gavi is no exception. Visit any premium winery, and you will see stainless steel tanks equipped with the latest high-tech tools to monitor everything from pH to ripeness. This is the reality of winemaking in the 21st century. Not very romantic, is it?
Artistry of Winemakers
Yet, let’s not underestimate the role of the winemakers – they are the true artists behind the high-quality Cortese di Gavi. Their choices, philosophies, and inputs are what truly define the final wine. From the decision to use stainless steel or barrique in the maturation process to the method of crushing berries or pressing whole bunches and even the controversial issue of skin contact, every step is a testament to their skill and dedication. The protection of juice before vinification and the cold-settling and/or filtration of must are almost universal in Gavi, as are the reliable results of fermentation in stainless steel: fragrant dry whites that are piercing in fruit flavor.
No, the ultimate dividing line in the production of Gavi is oak. It is a line many growers refuse to cross: winemakers such as Roberto Broglia argue that oak aging would standardize and homogenize Cortese di Gavi, robbing the wine of its typicité. That argument has some validity, as Cortese (much like other aromatic varieties such as Albariño) has high levels of aromatic compounds responsible for its refreshing bouquet of citrus, stone fruit, and apple. An excess of new oak risks obliterating this fruity delicacy, which most stakeholders wish to avoid.
Aging Potential and Unique Characteristics
Contrary to popular belief, Gavi is a wine that can age beautifully. Thanks to its ample acidity, Cortese has the potential to evolve into a mature and complex wine under the right conditions. The primary fruit flavors, undeniably attractive in their youth, will transform into a range of aromas, including honey, caramel, and almonds with a mineral background. Many producers are experimenting with extended lees aging to enhance Cortese’s structure and mouthfeel. For instance, the single-vineyard Bruno Broglia remains on its fine lees for at least 18 months, which brings richness and texture to the wine without compromising its freshness and verve!
However, although winemakers enjoy a reasonable amount of freedom, the DOCG framework does stipulate a minimum alcohol level (10.5 %) and rules pertaining to vineyard sources. For example, if the fruit comes from a delimited geographical area close to the eponymous town, producers label certain white wines as ‘Gavi di Gavi.’ However, officials give the highest rank to single-vineyard Rivera styles, which age for one year before release.
The Consorzio also allows the production of sparkling wines in Gavi: spumante (tank method) and traditional-method fizz. This latter category of metodo classico Cortese is a (relatively) rare sight in the cellars of Alessandria. However, rising demand encourages more growers to invest in the necessary – and expensive – equipment. It can rival Franciacorta and TrentoDoc.
Geography and terroir
Vineyards surrounding Gavi
An area of outstanding natural beauty produces this elegant, complex, and versatile dry white wine. Indeed, to visit the vineyards of Gavi is to understand that something truly special lurks beneath – a synergy of calcareous soils, grape variety, and climate. In every sense of the word, Cortese di Gavi is a terroir-driven wine.
Landscape and Vineyard Placement in Piedmont
The vignoble lies in the eastern half of the Piedmont region, close to the border with Liguria and its gorgeous coastline. And, unlike Barolo and Barbaresco, Gavi is some distance (over 90 kilometers) from the capital, Turin. The landscape, meanwhile, bears close comparison with Tuscany: the vineyards are planted on a series of rolling hills interspersed with meadows, fields, and dense woodland. In this timeless scene, vines carpet the valley floor and the higher slopes of the foothills, covering approximately 1600 hectares. This offers all the advantages of diurnal temperature variation and the concomitant levels of freshness in the wines.
Moreover, erosion over millions of years has littered the topsoils with gravel and flint, creating well-drained terroirs rich in minerals and other trace elements. Much like the gravel soils of Pauillac and Pessac-Leognan in Bordeaux, these rock fragments reflect heat back into the vine canopy, producing ripe and concentrated white wines. They are rich, pungent, and very moreish.
Cortese di Gavi encompasses over 12 communes in the province of Alessandria, and so there is a significant variance in terroir and mesoclimate between the different subzones. The Ligurian Sea also plays a vital role in moderating the intense summer heat of July and August – these maritime breezes can be a godsend in hotter vintages.
So, too, winemakers hold the limestone soils of Alessandria in great esteem: they offer an attractive balance between porosity and permeability. While generalizations can be tricky in such a diverse region, limestone often equals great fragrance and elegance in Cortese.
Unique Grape of Gavi and Terroir
It is also the only grape that can be used to produce Gavi. Thus, one generally attributes stylistic differences in the appellation to variances in soil and elevation rather than blend; indeed, the DOCG rules forbid a mixture of grapes. Yet no two bottles of Cortese di Gavi are completely alike.
If you visit the region, producers will happily organize blind tastings, comparing a series of wines from different plots in the zone. The experience can be very illuminating: heavier clay soils tend to yield a more robust and full-bodied expression of Cortese, while stony topsoil gives the wines a certain freshness and mineral zing. This is terroir in its purest form: when it comes alive in your glass!
Cortese di Gavi wines offer a unique style that is different from other Italian white wines. They are lighter, more refreshing, and often feature more nuanced flavors than other varieties, balancing fruitiness and minerality. The Cortese grape in Gavi is crucial in shaping the region’s distinct character. Its unique combination of high acidity, delicate aromas, minerality, and lightness has cemented Gavi’s position as a beloved region for producing fresh, elegant, and versatile white wines.
The hills of Gavi, overlooking the Po Valley, boast a unique combination of soil types, exposure, and altitude. This diverse terroir, combined with the influence of the nearby Ligurian Sea, adds complexity and depth to the wines.
Michele Chiarlo is one of Piedmont’s most prestigious wine producers, creating outstanding wines from some of the most exceptional sites in Piedmont, including Gavi. One of their standout Gavi wines is produced in Rovereto, a small but privileged sub-zone of Gavi recognized as one of the best microclimates for producing the Cortese grape. The vines are grown in mainly calcareous clay-marl soils of volcanic origin, rich in iron and magnesium.
Insight by Davide Ferrarese, Agronomist consultant at Vigna VeritasDavide Ferrarese
In 2023, the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi started a project focused on agronomic and meteorological analysis within the Gavi DOCG region. Initially (starting in April 2023), the Consorzio fully funded the establishment of a network of weather stations to collect environmental data and monitor the climate patterns within the Gavi DOCG territory. These stations are strategically placed across five data collection points, distributed between the peripheral and central areas of the denomination.
The weather stations are equipped with sensors to measure various parameters: temperature, humidity, dew point, heat index, wind chill index, pressure, wind speed, precipitation intensity, and daily, weekly, and annual precipitation, as well as leaf wetness.
The motivation behind this project is to gather data over upcoming seasons to develop an interpretative framework for understanding vintage conditions and predicting the vines’ responses. To achieve this, 15 vines of the Cortese variety have been selected in each of the five vineyards where the weather stations are installed. These vines, divided into three groups on a single row, are monitored at five key stages of the vegetative season: bud break, flowering, veraison, harvest, and leaf fall.
In recent years, there have been increasing challenges in vineyard management, particularly in determining the optimal harvest time. Understanding the progression of the season, which affects the various phenological stages of the vines, and identifying the appropriate techniques is crucial. Several issues need to be addressed: water shortages or excesses, and high temperatures that induce plant stress. These stresses are critical for ensuring grape production and quality, as they can also lead to reduced yields. While no new practices have yet been adopted in the vineyard, there has definitely been a shift in the approach to soil management and canopy management.
Insight by Maurizio Montobbio, Consorzio Gavi at PresidentMaurizio Montobbio, Consorzio President
In recent years, there has been less focus on the parameter of sugar level in the grapes, or the alcohol content of the wine (which is already naturally high). Instead, efforts have been made to determine the harvest time based on the acid content to preserve the “freshness” of the wine and the typicity of Gavi DOCG.
Alessandria is one of the most underrated foodie destinations in Piedmont. It is a lively small city with many excellent restaurants and trattorias. Local specialties include Pollo Alla Marengo (an unusual combination of chicken slowly braised in red wine, fried shrimp, and a fried egg on toast) and the delicious Baci di Dama hazelnut cookies. But most places will have a daily selection of specials and some obligatory pasta dishes. In our experience, the ravioli never fails to disappoint.
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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