Home of the Italian Riviera, Liguria in northwestern Italy has long been a tourist magnet for the rich and famous: Portofino is the most glamorous harbor and resort town in Italy, crammed with superyachts and Chanel bags. Indeed, cars are not allowed in the village, but boats run regularly between the resort and Santa Margherita Ligure. The entire region, a thin, vertiginous strip of land that extends from France to the Tuscan border, has an exclusive, luxurious air.
Yet Liguria produces a relatively small volume of wine – the second-lowest domestic output in the country. Moreover, none of Italy’s leading appellations and wines – Brunello, Barolo, Sassicaia, Ornellaia – belong to the Ligurians. This is despite a long history of vine cultivation that dates back to the ancient Greek and Etruscan civilizations. In truth, there are few viticultural celebrities in Liguria, a destination that welcomes millions of visitors each year but lacks a regional equivalent of Chianti Classico or Barbaresco.
However, that does not mean Liguria is a wine desert. The region’s combination of favorable climate, sea breezes, indigenous varieties, and varied elevations is exciting for oenophiles seeking a real difference.
Your choices include super-pungent, saline Vermentino (known colloquially as Pigato), the red curiosity Rossese, aromatic Bianchetta Genovese, and the late harvest passito wines of the Golfo del Tiquillio. Classic styles like oak-aged Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc are on tap! No Grazie; regional accents and local traditions are the lifeblood of Liguria.
Monte Ursino Castle: Overlooking the village of Noli on the Italian Riviera
Today, the region known as Liguria has cultivated grapes for centuries, producing wines celebrated in antiquity for their strength, virility, and sweetness. Historians believe the first Greek colonists reached Italy as early as 800 BC, introducing new grape varieties and other exotic goods to the peninsula.
The rise of the Etruscans (circa 700 BC) established Italy as a major center of viticulture, supplying vast quantities of wine for their famously lavish banquets and festivals.
After expelling the Etruscan kings in 509 BC, the ambitious and well-organized Roman successors continued this noble tradition. A subsequent victory over the Carthaginians during the Punic Wars made Rome the dominant power in the Mediterranean. As a result, many vines were planted in the hills that tower above Cinque Terre (five villages), producing wines exported to all corners of the rapidly growing Roman Empire.
After the collapse of the Western Empire in 476 AD, the Germanic Ostrogoths captured Liguria’s capital, Genoa. Yet they were supplanted by the Lombards who invaded northern Italy in 564; the Franks, Muslim Saracens, and Normans all attempted to conquer this lucrative piece of real estate in the Middle Ages.
Nevertheless, in the 13th century, the Republic of Genoa emerged as one of the peninsula’s most powerful (commercially and militarily) city-states, fabulously wealthy from trade with the Orient. The city’s most famous alumnus is Christopher Columbus, who played a significant role in Spain’s exploration of the Caribbean and Central and South America.
Resurgence of Ligurian Wine
During this epoch, winegrowing returned to full strength in Liguria, albeit the region’s unique topography prevented the industrial-scale plantings seen across Veneto and central Italy. Emperors, crusaders, and doges regarded Liguria as their home from home, drawn to its spectacular landscapes, fresh seafood, and delicious wines.
Meanwhile, much of northern Italy came under the control of Austria, as small, fragmented states could ultimately not compete with great powers.
In the late 19th century, the popularity of Ligurian wines soared, mainly because phylloxera—a deadly vine pest accidentally imported from the US—had devastated so many other European vineyards. But it was only a matter of time before phylloxera arrived in Liguria, leading many growers to abandon their livelihoods as it destroyed entire crops.
However, the latter part of the 20th century saw a modest revival and rising tourism to the eternally beautiful Italian Riviera.
Today’s challenge is to excite a new global audience, as few regions can survive on domestic demand (which is falling) and tourism alone.
Winemaking and regional classifications
Liguria offers diverse wine styles and esoteric flavors, ranging from bone-dry Pigato to late-harvest Muscat Blanc. Indeed, the warm Mediterranean climate and favorable aspect of these coastal vineyards have no direct parallel in Italy.
They allow growers to produce aromatic dry whites and voluptuous reds. Family-run estates and local cooperatives dominate Liguria. It is a place where artisans hone their craft and corporate ownership is actively discouraged; a place where tradition and innovation coexist with great ease, an example for others to follow.
Take, for example, the production of DOC Colline di Levanto and the famous DOC Cinque Terre. The grapes authorized by the respective appellations—Bosco, Albarola, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and Ciliegiolo—have been planted in these steep hills for hundreds of years, so the traditional blends have scarcely altered during that time.
Yet there is no shortage of modern equipment and stainless steel in Liguria—the vast majority of dry whites are fermented in steel tanks at low temperatures and bottled relatively soon after the harvest.
Maturation in oak, meanwhile, has never been a key part of the winemaking culture in Colline di Levanto and Cinque Terre. They are the local versions of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, served with grilled fish on the steep coast near the dynamic city of La Spezia. Their job is to refresh your palate with a fruity zip and zing rather than showcase layers of oak-derived complexity, which is precisely what discerning visitors and locals crave.
Exploring Lesser-Known DOCs
Other less-known coastal whites include the wines of Golfo del Tigullio DOC (red and rosé styles are also permitted) and the very obscure Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, running from the city of Genoa to the French border. Bianchetta Genovese and Pigato are again the mainstays of local white blends; Dolcetto and Ciliegiolo are combined to create Golfo del Tigullio Rosso styles.
Like the vineyards of Cinque Terre, local conditions—sea breezes, high-altitude sites, and limestone-rich soils—are highly conducive to quality wine growing. In extreme cases, vineyards in Riviera Ligure di Ponente can reach elevations surpassing 750 meters, although most are planted between 300 and 400 meters above sea level. Thus, the vines enjoy all the benefits of diurnal temperature variation, with warm days and cool nights.
The resulting white wines are reliably firm, aromatic, super-fresh, and pungent, with the smell of garrigue and citrus. Some producers prefer the (now fashionable) technique of fermenting whites in contact with the grape skins, combined with low temperatures to preserve Vermentino’s distinctive fruit.
Meanwhile, the Golfo del Tigullio and Ligure di Ponente reds range from bright and floral styles to deeply colored, full-bodied, and complex wines, uniquely expressing ancient varieties and soils. You can taste the esoteric blends of Colli di Luni (hills of the Moon) and Val Polcevera DOCs in the osterie of Genoa; finding them elsewhere is hard.
However, the most impressive Ligurian wine is arguably the red Rossese. This noble grape yields delicate yet spicy concoctions in northwest Italy – inviting to smell and refreshing to drink. It reaches an apogee in the appellation Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, where clay-limestone soils and high elevations produce very ethereal and complex red wines.
And, unlike Barolo and Brunello, it does not require any bottle age to reach its full potential. The same advantage applies to the soft-fruit reds of Dolcetto, known by their local synonym as Ormeasco. The vineyards of Ormeasco di Pornassio, situated at the western end of Liguria and flanked by the Italian Alps, always produce the best examples. Rising to 800 meters above sea level, these climats (vineyard sites) can struggle to ripen the berries in cooler years. But, in a good vintage, they will yield Dolcetto wines of incomparable finesse and charm.
IGT designations
In addition to the key DOC appellations, a large volume of wine is marketed under the auspices of the IGT (‘Indicazione Geografica Tipica’) framework. These include Terrazze dell’Imperiese, Colline Savonesi and Colline del Genovesato IGTs. A broad spectrum of wine styles fly under the IGT banner, including the spicy red Granaccia, made from an Italian descendant of Grenache Noir.
There are also some very drinkable dry whites, rosés, and a small quantity of passito dessert wines for a dwindling (but appreciative) audience.
Geography and terroir
Vineyard on the slopes overlooking the sea near Cinque Terre
Italy’s rich history of native grapes is best preserved in the dramatic hills of Liguria, where ancient traditions have been augmented by modern technology; the best of both worlds. The region’s most famous grape, Pigato, joins an ensemble cast of weird and wonderful varieties, including the super-rare Bosco and spicy Rossese.
They are cultivated in a narrow strip of land that connects the French Riviera with the heart of Tuscany. Liguria is undoubtedly the most beautiful part of northwest Italy. Terraced vineyards, great food, pristine beaches, and a turquoise sea—sounds like heaven on earth to us.
Challenges of Winegrowing in Steep Landscapes
Yet, regular visitors to Tuscany and Piedmont are often blindsided by the region’s unique wine culture: everything is on a much smaller scale in the steep landscapes of Liguria. This is mainly because of the hilly inclines (responsible for protecting sea-facing vines from glacial mountain breezes in the winter) and lack of flat land significantly limit the potential acreage; some vineyards can only be accessed by boat, requiring months and months of hard labor.
As a result, vine density is exceptionally high in Liguria, planted on rocky slopes that shadow the Mediterranean. It is little wonder that tourists flock here in their millions every year.
Today, the total vineyard area is just over 6000 hectares, although only 500 hectares are dedicated to producing DOC wines. Although dozens of indigenous grapes are cultivated in the broader region, white styles rule the roost here.
The signature white grape of the area, Pigato, yields small berries of highly concentrated fruit in the infertile soils of Liguria: calcareous terroirs are very common in the zone, much to the benefit of wine quality. Rich in minerals, they offer a good water retention and permeability balance.
And, as visitors will attest, the pine-wood and saline aromas of a good Pigato are a divine match to local gastronomic delicacies – oysters, king prawns, grilled fish, and charcoal-seared lamb. In every sense of the expression, Ligurian food and wine complement each other perfectly.
Facts & Figures
Key wine styles
light-to-medium-bodied reds
dry whites
rosé
passito dessert wines
a small volume of sparkling wine
Appellation structure
Eight DOC and four IGT designations
Hectares under vine
6,000 (including IGT wines)
Average annual production
7.6 million liters per annum
Approximate number of producers
1,000
Exclusive Expert Insights
Insight by Diego Bosoni, owner at Lunae wineryDiego Bosoni owner of Lvnae winery, Liguria
1. Tell us more about your territory. What factors make it unique in Liguria? The hills of Luni rise towards the Apuan Alps and their marbles, offering varied soils and a perfect climate. The sharp mountain peaks protect the entire area from the cold northern winds, while the sea mitigates the seasons and provides constant breezes. Within this microcosm, however, there are many differences. The Colli di Luni are divided into three sectors: the flat area, the foothills and finally the highest area whose vineyards reach – almost in one leap – 300 metres above sea level and beyond. A clear dividing line between the first and the other two patches is drawn by the Aurelia, an ancient Roman road. South of the road, the flat part, closest to the coast; just across this boundary, in the opposite direction to the sea, gentle slopes. Then, suddenly, the slope becomes harsh and difficult. Each plot is profoundly different, and this has always required us to have a thorough knowledge of the entire area.
2. Why is your terroir suited to growing the Vermentino variety? In the Colli di Luni area, with its combination of soils and microclimate, Vermentino finds its chosen land. Thanks to the different soils, our terroir can provide different characters in each Vermentino produced. In the flat area, which we could almost call coastal, the soils are sandy, light, loose, where the salty wind, the evening sea breezes and a veil of humidity – even in the hottest summer – refresh the plants like a light shower. Here we have a Vermentino which is fresh, delicate and salty. In the foothills, the skeleton becomes more evident, and the soils acquire complexity and different characteristics, characterised by red and sometimes iron-rich soils, with gradually larger pebbles: these properties enrich our Vermentino with floral and fruity notes, keeping its saltiness and acidity. Finally, reaching the hilly zone, we find an extraordinarily soil: unusual dark, studded with pulverised stones. In these patches, our Vermentino becomes full-bodied, the taste changes direction getting notes of tropical and ripe fruit, honey and creamy texture. The difference between plots is stark, and changes with each ridge. Each vineyard has different characteristics.
3. Can you describe some perfect food and Vermentino pairings? Given that each vermentino in our territory has different characteristics, depending on the area of production, it is generally an elegant wine, with hints of flowers and field grasses, peach, cedar, and subtle iodine hints; the flavour is fresh and savoury, with good persistence, the scents perceived on the nose are rediscovered, enriched by notes of Mediterranean fine herbs. It is suitable to accompany a wide range of local dishes such as cheese focaccia, whitebait omelette, cicada soup, testaroli with cream of mushroom soup, trofiette with pesto, baked ombrine, boiled sea bass, Ligurian stuffed fish, anchovy quiches and stuffed squid. It does not, however, disdain combinations with white meats and vegetables.
4. How has your region been affected by climate change, and what innovations have you adapted to cope with these changes?
Fortunately, our region has not experienced any major climatic changes. The conformity of the terrain has helped a lot to resist various bad weather. We have the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, which protect us from harsh winters and impetuous thunderstorm phenomena, and the sea has the function of mitigating torrid summers, making them hot and windy during the day and cool at night. However, innovations to contrast climate change have been taken in the construction of the new wine cellar; the structure is designed to be sustainable: it counts on a large share of self-produced energy with geothermal and photovoltaic systems and the remainder is purchased from renewable sources. Work in the vineyard is manual, with less impact on the environment, and the quest for sustainability is increasing, from packaging to the search for complete energy autonomy, with consequent reductions in CO2 emission.
Key Grape Varietals
Albarola
Albarola (or Albarola Bianca) is an Italian white wine grape variety mainly grown in Liguria. It is used in dry white blends and the rare sweet dessert wine Cinque Terre Sciacchetra. While most of Italy's Albarola plantings are in Puglia, it plays a minor role there. Small amounts are also in Tuscany. In Liguria, Albarola is often blended with Vermentino and Bosco and is rarely bottled as a varietal due to its neutral flavor.
Bosco
Bosco is a Ligurian white-wine grape variety primarily used in blends for Cinque Terre's crisp, aromatic white wines alongside Vermentino and Albarola. Rarely vinified as a varietal, Bosco provides structure and richness to these wines. It thrives on the terraced slopes of Cinque Terre, where the challenging terrain requires hand harvesting, often aided by monorail systems. Bosco is also vital for the region's sweet Sciacchetra wines, made in the passito style with air-dried grapes, showcasing rich, syrupy flavors of stone fruits and honey.
Bianchetta Genovese
Bianchetta Genovese is a little-known white wine grape variety used almost exclusively along Liguria's coast in northwest Italy. Primarily blended with Vermentino, it features in the white and sweet passito wines of Golfo del Tigullio. Named after Genova, Bianchetta Genovese produces dry, refreshing white wines intended for local consumption.
Lumassina
Lumassina is a light-skinned grape variety indigenous to Liguria, primarily grown around Savona. Known for its lively citrus flavors and medium-weighted palate with notes of yellow apples, stonefruit, and honey, Lumassina is used mainly as a minor blending component in Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC wines, supporting Pigato (Vermentino) and Moscato Bianco.
Ciliegiolo, a red grape from central and northwestern Italy, is gaining popularity in Liguria and Tuscany. It's featured in various Italian DOCs, including Chianti, and has seen a rise in varietal IGT wines since 2000. Known for its cherry-like color and aroma, Ciliegiolo adds freshness and liveliness to wines, catering to the demand for early-drinking yet characterful wines. The grape requires careful cultivation due to mildew susceptibility.
Rossese
Rossese is a mildly aromatic red grape variety believed to have been brought to Liguria, Italy, from southern France. It is used in a small number of DOCs for both blended and varietal wines, most notably in Dolceacqua near the Franco-Italian border. Among Liguria's red grapes, Rossese is well-suited for varietal wines, often blended with Sangiovese in regions like Golfo del Tigullio, Colli di Luni, and Vignanello. Rossese rivals Dolcetto as Liguria's top red wine grape.
Pesto alla Genovese: a delicious blend of garlic, olive oil, pine nuts, basil leaves, and grated hard cheese
Liguria offers a feast for all the senses, be it chaotic trattorias in Genoa’s heart or seaside dining in the pastel-colored villages of Cinque Terre. It is the birthplace of pesto—or, more accurately, pesto alla Genovese—a delicious paste that merges crushed garlic, olive oil, pine nuts, basil leaves, and grated hard cheese to spectacular effect. It is usually served with pasta, a real local standby.
Yet, there is far more to Ligurian cuisine than this internationally famous pasta sauce. In the surrounding countryside, a bounty of fresh produce (not least zucchini, eggplants, and artichokes) shares living space with nuts and wild mushrooms, foraged as the last grapes are being picked in the fall.
Meanwhile, Coniglio alla ligure is an exquisite braised rabbit dish cooked with pine nuts, olives, wild herbs, and red wine. Of course, we can only offer a snapshot of the gastronomic riches that await visitors to the rugged terrain and historic cities of Liguria. You’ll have to come and see for yourself to discover what else is in store!
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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