Situated between Lombardy to the west and Veneto to the southeast, Trentino-Alto Adige is a one-of-a-kind Italian destination. Its breathtaking valleys and Alpine peaks (Alto Adige, formerly known as the südtirol) are nestled on the southern tip of Austria’s border, making it Italy’s most northerly wine region. The producers in Trentino-Alto Adige have a rich history with French grapes, crafting the enchanting Bordeaux blends of San Leonardo and the dry, bottle-fermented sparkling wines of Trento DOC. This unique blend of Italian and French influences creates a cultural and viticultural diversity that will pique your interest.
Elsewhere, the region boasts a rich tapestry of native flavors and esoteric styles, including the versatile Schiava and Lagrein, grown around the charming city of Bolzano. Local restaurants reflect this diversity, with many specializing in hearty Austrian cuisine alongside traditional Italian dishes. This cultural and viticultural blend makes Trentino-Alto Adige a truly unique destination.
Unlike the tourist-heavy Tuscany and Rome, Trentino-Alto Adige offers a more serene and authentic travel experience. A manageable number of visitors have discovered the lower slopes of the Adige Valley, while the Dolomites remain a beacon of winter tourism. This ancient travel corridor, responsible for connecting Italy to Austria via the Brenner Pass, has retained its authenticity and unique identity. The region’s blend of Germanic food, Italian soils, and French vine varieties creates a harmonious and peaceful atmosphere, perfect for a tranquil exploration of the astonishingly beautiful vineyards of Trentino-Alto Adige.
It is generally agreed that the Romans conquered Trentino-Alto Adige in 15 BC, consolidating their grip over the Italian Peninsula in a series of blood-soaked campaigns. At the height of their power, Roman Emperors had dominions that included Great Britain, North Africa, and modern-day Turkey – over a quarter of the world’s population lived and died under the Caesars. The era of political stability, which lasted for over four centuries, fostered a flourishing agriculture: pergola-trained vines and bountiful orchards carpeted the undulating landscape of the Trentino Valley. Producers supplied an eager market with strong and sweetened wines, adulterating them with herbs and maderizing them over open flames As the writings of Pliny the Elder so clearly demonstrate, wine was an essential part of any Roman celebration.
However, Roman authority had all but collapsed by the 5th century AD. In 476, the year traditionally recognized as the end of the Roman Empire, the last Emperor, Romulus Augustulus, was deposed. In the aftermath, Trentino-Alto Adige was occupied by the Bavarians, Alemanni, and Lombards, respectively. Yet, in the 8th century, a powerful and unifying political force would emerge again in Western Europe. Pepin, a Frankish king, offered to remove the Lombards from Italy in return for papal recognition of the legitimacy of his line of succession. His son, Charlemagne, was crowned Holy Roman Emperor during Christmas Mass in 800. Trentino-Alto Adige was subdivided between the Duchy of Bavaria and the Marquisate of Verona as part of the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.
The Church’s Role in Medieval Winegrowing
During this period, the Church began to take an active role in winegrowing; Trentino-Alto Adige was essentially a Catholic province administered by prince-bishops, to whom successive Holy Roman Emperors gave considerable autonomy. Here, within the stable framework of the Church and the monasteries, styles of wine and grape varieties now familiar to us came into being. Indeed, few things in the medieval world were as strictly regulated as wine; Charlemagne was obsessed with raising standards in European viticulture and winemaking. This fine tradition continued after the region became part of the Habsburg Empire in 1363.
By the 19th century, French vine varieties (including Bordeaux grapes) had been introduced to the vineyards of Trentino-Alto Adige, although Cabernet Franc planted at San Leonardo in Trentino turned out to be Carmenère! Meanwhile, an intrepid winemaker, Giulio Ferrari, returned to his native region in 1902 full of enthusiasm for the Chardonnay grape after a prolonged visit to Champagne. At a time when Trento was still part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Ferrari laid the foundations for the creation of Trento DOC.
This appellation competes with Franciacorta for the title of Italy’s finest fizz. This tradition of planting imported grapes gathered momentum in the 20th century, encouraging others to produce well-made facsimiles of classic styles like Champagne and Left Bank Bordeaux. Fortunately, there is no shortage of indigenous grapes and original flavors, too, lest Trentino-Alto Adige be accused of outrageous plagiarism.
Geography and terroir
The Dolomites act as a rain shadow, blocking the passage of rain clouds
Trentino-Alto Adige is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most spectacular wine regions, home to snow-capped mountains, verdant valleys, and crystal-clear lakes. Formerly the property of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it now forms a dramatic corridor that travels into the beating heart of the Austrian Alps, encompassing an eclectic mix of grape varieties, mesoclimates, and subregions.
Travel the 128-kilometer distance from Avio in the southern tip to Merano in the far north of Alto Adige, and you will encounter a myriad of vine-covered slopes and terraced rock walls, some of which contain beautiful pergolas – used to ripen grapes since Roman times. Meanwhile, the Adige River and its tributaries have spent centuries eroding this rock-lined trench to create several lush, fertile valleys, including the Valle di Cei and the Val di Cembra. Oenophiles, nature lovers, winter enthusiasts, and gourmets will find much to love here.
Altitude and Climate’s Impact
Today, vintners have planted approximately 13,700 hectares in Trentino-Alto Adige, cultivating them on the valley slopes and the hills to the east and west of the river. Much like Piedmont, there are plenty of high-altitude climats (vineyard sites) in the region, some climbing to as high as 900 meters above sea level. Indeed, vineyards cover the vast majority (80%) of the steep slopes, although most do not exceed an elevation of 600 meters. Yet despite the nominally Alpine climate (and moderating effects of altitude), summer temperatures in Trentino-Alto Adige can rise above 86°F in July and August.
Meanwhile, the Dolomites act as a rain shadow, blocking the passage of rain clouds and thus protecting the valley floor from rainfall. As a result, the lower slopes heat up relatively quickly in the summer as pockets of warm air rise from the valley. This warm Alpine air and many hours of intense sunshine yield concentrated red and white wines rich in fruit and extract. Achieving a satisfactory level of physiological ripeness is seldom a problem in the hills of Trentino-Alto Adige. These gusts of warm air also provide natural protection against fungal diseases occurring during the growing season, such as powdery and downy mildew.
Wine Production Techniques
However, maintaining freshness in the wines, especially white varieties, has become more difficult as global warming takes its toll on the region. The production of sparkling wines is key here: high-quality base wines need sufficient levels of acidity to provide structure and freshness, balancing out the exuberant fruit that comes all too easily to growers in Trentino-Alto Adige. For that reason, leading companies such as Ferrari are increasingly planting at higher altitudes in the zone, mindful of the changing climate. And still, wine producers are following suit.
“We replaced our Müller Thurgau (which needs the coolest climate) vineyards at below 800 meters with Pinot Grigio or Pinot Bianco. We also replanted our Sauvignon and Pinot Blanc vineyards at altitudes of 450m above sea level – they were formerly planted at 350m.”
Irrigation also plays an important role in local viticulture despite an average of 99 millimeters of rainfall per annum. However, due to the extremely well-drained soils – alluvial matter with some gravel and limestone – and an abundance of moisture-sapping grass, a lack of water is a big problem in the region. Nevertheless, Trentino-Alto Adige offers many mesoclimates with significant elevation, aspect, and soil type differences. This is a highly diverse, challenging, and parcellated vineyard.
Winemaking and regional classifications
Trentino Alto Adige vineyards
Trentino-Alto Adige showcases both international flavors and regional idiosyncrasies. Yet its biggest triumphs, at least in the premium marketplace, are well-made imitations of French classics.
Trentino
Trento DOC is a shining example. Thanks to the pioneering efforts of Giulio Ferrari, over 55 wineries now cultivate growing quantities of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Meunier in the province of Trento, used to make metodo classico sparkling wine that can rival vintage Champagne in its depth and complexity. The secret to their success? High elevation (vital for maintaining freshness in the wines) and rigorous quality regulations are behind it all. Producers must age every bottle of non-vintage Trento DOC for at least 15 months on the lees, similar to Champagne, before disgorgement.
Meanwhile, irrigation is allowed only as an emergency measure under the appellation rules, while vintage and riserva expressions are aged 24 and 36 months, respectively. Thus, any tour of a major winery in Trento will call forth instant recognition from a Champagne aficionado; the winemaking processes, riddling equipment, dark cellars, bottle-stacked lathes, and disgorgement lines all look strikingly similar. The only key difference is the inclusion of Pinot Blanc – only a tiny percentage of growers in Champagne blend in the grape. Exemplified by the brilliant wines of Ferrari, Trento DOC has an Italian panache all of its own.
However, internationalized companies do not dominate production in Trentino-Alto Adige – local cooperatives manage much of the acreage. Many of these associations market wines under the catch-all Trentino DOC created in 1971. It is a very expansive appellation, casting its net over a broad range of red and white wine styles based on imported or native grapes. The commercial favorite, of course, is Pinot Grigio, grown in vast quantities and sold to hypermarkets worldwide.
We suspect that oenophiles will find much more interest and excitement in the little-known Marzemino grape. Cultivated in several locations, including Trentino Isera and the Vallagarina Gorge, it yields very pretty and floral red wine with highly fashionable moderate alcohol levels.
From the northern end of Trentino comes another obscure red variety known as Teroldego. Yet it boasts its own geographical designation, Teroldego Rotaliano DOC, based in the Campo Rotaliano between Mezzocorona and Mezzolombardo. Teroldego thrives on a mixture of sand and gravel terroir, producing medium-bodied reds with hallmark bracing acidity and a hint of bitterness that deserves rich, hearty cuisine.
According to the DOC framework, both (100% Teroldego) red and rosé wines can be produced and aged for at least two years to qualify for riserva status. Certain winemakers favor a maturation period in new French barrique, although it is not always to the wine’s benefit. Used oak barrels or, even better, aging in a steel tank is far more preferable in our experience. Elisabetta Foradori, however, has been experimenting with fermentation and maturation in clay amphorae, and it’s hard to argue with the results.
Meanwhile, the eastern Adige slopes that flank San Michele grow a broad palate of white and red varieties, often labeled as Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica). Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc can all thrive here. The Valle del Lahgi, west of the central Trentino Valley with its three small lakes, also dabbles in international styles, albeit sommeliers favor the sweet Vin Santo produced from Nosiola – a now revived indigenous grape. Dry versions, however, are becoming more popular due to a lack of consumer interest in dessert wines. The best examples are truly delicious: fruit-driven and very fresh saline whites.
Yet few wineries rival San Leonardo’s dazzling brilliance and exquisite Bordeaux blends. In the southern reaches of the zone close to Avio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenère are grown on gravel soils and aged in French oak for 24 months, creating a Medoc-like red that continues to dazzle sommeliers and win gold medals at competitions.
Alto Adige
Today, a great deal of local wine is sold under the flagship Alto Adige DOC. Inspired by Alsace, varietal labeling is widespread in the zone, as are French grape varieties and racy, fruity, dry whites. Cooperatives are the most important stakeholders in Alto Adige, harvesting generous quantities of fruit from the benchland and lower slopes of the Adige Valley.
But some leading private wineries, such as Hofstatter, also source grapes from a network of intricate and highly valued crus, often based on the slopes above Bolzano and Termeno. As elsewhere, low yields, judicious winemaking, and exceptional terroir deliver superior results, particularly in the Valle Venosta and Valle Isarco northeast of Bolzano.
Grown at elevations that can exceed 600 meters, Riesling, Silvaner, and Traminer yield concentrated, super-fresh whites on both calcareous and granite terroirs. They join an ocean of very reliable Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc, typically fermented in stainless steel and bottled less than 12 months after the harvest. The oak-aged Chardonnays, however, are quite different: ripe and round with aromas of buttered toast and vanilla.
The most planted native red grape is Schiava, also known as Vernatsch in Trentino. Often cropped at high yields and produced in industrial conditions, Schiava delivers pale, anodyne, and soft red wines that are nonetheless enthusiastically quaffed by tourists in Bolzano. Yet, thanks to a renewed interest in old vines, some very impressive examples are also being made. So, too, can Lagrein shine in the hills around Alto Adige’s capital, as can blends of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Of course, Lagrein offers a more original entry into the region’s viticultural history, celebrated for its tannic profile and black cherry and plum flavors. Sadly, selling abroad is not always easy due to a lack of awareness. However, the refined and long-lived Pinot Noir wines of Franz Haas continue to seduce jet-setting buyers. The thirst for affordable alternatives to red Burgundy, produced in Europe and the New World, remains unquenchable.
Facts & Figures
Key wine styles
Full-bodied red and white wines; traditional method sparkling; dessert wine
Appellation structure
Nine DOC and four IGP designations Hectares under vine: 13700
Average annual production
14.7 million cases of wine per annum
Approximate number of producers
274 wineries and 5000 growers
Exclusive Expert Insights
Insight by Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga, Owner at San LeonardoAnselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga
Trentino, nestled among the Italian Alps, captivates with its beauty and rich wine heritage. The wineries of Trentino, such as Ferrari, San Leonardo, and Foradori, represent a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, producing high-quality wines with very different styles, appreciated internationally.
Of course, much hinges on our terroir. The variety of Trentino’s soils, from dolomitic limestone to clay and sandy soils, allows the cultivation of numerous grape varieties, each enhanced by its unique terroir. The Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site, create unique microclimates that favor the production of distinctive wines. The vineyards, with steep terraces and the use of the Trentino pergola, both single and double, along with the introduction of modern rows, create a diverse and fascinating landscape.
However, like many other regions, Trentino is facing climate change challenges with innovative techniques. The Trentino pergola plays a crucial role in mitigating the effects of excessive heat, thanks to the vegetative cover provided by this training system. Additionally, the mountains shield the vineyards from sunlight for several hours a day, helping to produce contemporary wines with moderate alcohol levels and great freshness. These efforts ensure that the wines maintain their quality despite environmental challenges.
Meanwhile, Trentino is renowned for a wide range of wines, from fresh and aromatic whites to full-bodied and complex reds. Varieties such as Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Teroldego, and Lagrein reflect the strength and tradition of the territory. Recently, Trentodoc sparkling wines have gained significant international recognition, becoming the flagship of Trentino’s production. Not to be forgotten are the great Bordeaux blends, for which Trentino has been a forerunner and which today boasts some of the highest quality expressions. Trentino is a unique region where man and nature coexist in harmony, with deep respect for the land. The mountains offer breathtaking views and unique climatic conditions, while the varied soils allow for a great diversity of terroirs. This makes Trentino a land of elegance and enjoyable wines.
Situated within the landscape of the northern Italian Alpes, Alto Adige is a wine region of remarkable contrast and character. High peaks of the Alps surround the region in the north, while the south is warmed by Mediterranean influences. That is why Alto Adige is a region where the extremes of nature come together to create outstanding wines. At the center of this region is Cantina Kaltern, a cooperative winery that truly reflects the special character of its environment.
The vineyards are shaped by the region’s unique terrain. The vines grow on steep slopes, with some reaching 1,000 meters above sea level. These high-altitude locations, combined with a variety of soil types, provide ideal growth conditions for grapes. The region’s soils range from volcanic rock in Bolzano to ancient rock with quartz, slate, and mica in the Isarco Valley and Val Venosta, as well as limestone and dolomite in the south. This mix of soils explains the diverse range of wine styles.
Cantina Kaltern is more than just a winery; it is a community, a cooperative of passionate winegrowers who have been cultivating vines in harmony with nature for generations. The commitment to hand-harvesting ensures that every grape is handled carefully, preserving the integrity of the fruit and the land.
Cantina Kaltern and the Alto Adige region have not just survived, but thrived in the face of climate change. Their higher altitude vines and meticulous vineyard management have not only allowed them to adapt to warmer temperatures but also to produce wines of exceptional quality and character.
Cantina Kaltern produces a wide selection of wines that showcase the region’s versatility. Alto Adige is particularly well-known for its white wines, which account for 65% of total production. These white wines, created from grapes such as Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewürztraminer, are noted for their crispness, freshness, and vibrant fruit flavours, which are influenced by the chilly alpine air and mineral-rich soils. The red wines, which account for 35% of total production in Alto Adige, are equally distinctive. The indigenous variety Schiava produces a light, refreshing wine with a delicate structure.
This is a particularly important grape variety for Cantina Kaltern, as the DOC “Kalteresee Classico” is located in the village of Kaltern. The international grape variety Pinot Nero presents itself from its fruity, delicate and fresh side in Alto Adige. Another indigenous variety, the Lagrein, thrives in the region as well, producing a rounded and full-bodied wine. Remarkably, 98% of Alto Adige’s wines are DOC-certified, demonstrating the outstanding quality and dedication of its small-scale growers. Many of these farmers, generally families cultivating less than a hectare of land, are passionate about their vineyards and view winemaking as a passion rather than a job. This attention results in wines that are both precise and rich of character.
Cantina Kaltern and the broader Alto Adige region are ambassadors of the harmonious relationship between nature and tradition. Here, the unique climatic and geological conditions combine to produce wines of exceptional quality and character.
Carménère is a red wine grape from Bordeaux, France, once used for blending but is now mostly grown in Chile. Named for its crimson leaves in autumn, it's part of the Cabernet family and was one of Bordeaux's original six red grapes. Although rare in France today, Chile leads with the largest Carménère vineyards, exploring its blending potential, notably with Cabernet Sauvignon. The grape is also cultivated in Italy, Argentina, and parts of the United States.
Marzemino, a red grape from Trentino, Italy, is noted for its mention in Mozart's "Don Giovanni." It ripens late and is disease-prone, producing wines with a dark color and light plum flavor. DNA suggests it originated in northern Italy, supporting its regional origins, related to Marzemina Bianca, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, and Teroldego.
Schiava (is a red grape varietal group grown in Italy's Alto Adige and Germany's Württemberg regions. Schiava varieties include Schiava Gentile, Schiava Grigia, and Schiava Grossa. These grapes produce wines with bright acidity, low tannins, and flavors of raspberries, strawberries, rose, and smoky-sweet almonds. Despite their nickname, "cotton candy wine," these wines are often dry.
Canederli: Trentino's beloved bread dumplings in a muchroom sauce
Like everything else in Trentino-Alto Adige, local gastronomy riffs on Italian, Austrian, and Germanic influences deliver one of Europe’s most fascinating and eclectic culinary experiences. Thus, wine bars will serve a large selection of German-style beers on tap and copious amounts of spritzes and Schiava by the glass.
You cannot go wrong with venison ragu with pine nuts, ‘taiadele smalzade’ (pan-fried fat noodles), or mushroom canederli. Still hungry? Try the wild boar sausages, river trout, and pine-scented risotto. You’ve come to the right place if you seek rich nourishment, unabashed hedonism, and a warm welcome.
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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