Córdoba Travel Guide

Situated on a curve of the Guadalquivir River, with countryside spreading out in every direction, Córdoba boasts a fascinating and romantic history. In its heyday, the former capital of Al-Andalus (the Muslim-controlled parts of medieval Spain), Córdoba was a magnificent representation of Moorish power. Its former mosque, the Mezquita, is one of the most spectacular Islamic buildings in the world; visitors today remain entranced by this remarkable piece of architecture, in addition to Córdoba‘s charming medieval quarter, which comes alive at night with its atmospheric cafes, tapas bars, and restaurants.

Córdoba began life as a Roman settlement, founded in 152 BC by a Garrison attracted by its strategic position on the Guadalquivir River. The Romans controlled Andalusia – known as Baetic – for centuries, having wrestled control from the Carthaginians during the Second Punic War. Córdoba prospered under Roman rule and soon became one of the empire’s most civilized and wealthiest areas outside of Italy. Andalusia and Córdoba experienced several significant cultural and technological changes during this period. The Romans introduced aqueducts, temples, and amphitheaters to Spain, its language, and the basis of the modern Spanish legal system.

However, following the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, Córdoba fell into decline. The Germanic Visigoth tribes took control of most of the Iberian Peninsula in the 6th century AD, making Toledo their capital in central Spain. Nonetheless, their rule over Hispano Romans was precarious, and by 700, with famine in Toledo and chaos throughout the Peninsula, Visigoth control was falling apart. This paved the way for the Muslim invasion of 711, which set Spain and Córdoba‘s destiny apart from the rest of Europe.

After the 8th-century invasion, Córdoba became the Muslim capital of the Iberian Peninsula, and a new era of prosperity dawned across Andalusia. In the 10th century, Abd ar-Rahman III named himself caliph and ensured that Al-Andalus was ruled independently of the Middle East’s Moorish kingdoms. Under his rule, Córdoba‘s population grew significantly, and the city became the largest in Western Europe. Its wealth was renowned across Europe, as were the city’s architectural wonders, including mosques, patios, gardens, and fountains. It was a magnificent time for Córdoba‘s citizens.

In the latter part of the 10th century, the caliph’s reign ended when a ruthless general, Al-Mansur, took control of Córdoba and conducted several bloodthirsty raids against Christian Spain. Following his death and Al-Mansur’s son’s death, the caliphate descended into anarchy, with rival Muslim factions and Christians from northern Spain fighting over the spoils of this once great city. The Berbers looted Córdoba on more than one occasion, and eventually, Al-Andalus collapsed into several tarifas (small kingdoms).

In the 11th century, Córdoba was ruled as part of Seville’s Tarifa and was overshadowed by the city, which grew in importance as Córdoba declined in wealth and population. It became something of a provincial city following Fernando III’s reconquest of Andalusia in the 13th century. Córdoba was captured in 1236, and much of its population fled, fearful of reprisals and persecution.

Following the reconquest of Spain by Fernando III, Muslims were persecuted for many centuries. Cardinal Cisneros, an overseer of the Spanish Inquisition, carried out mass forced baptism and banned both books and the Arabic language. Eventually, Muslims were given an ultimatum – convert to Christianity or leave. Then, the fanatical Spanish King Felipe II took it one step further, expelling Moriscos (converted Muslims) from Spain from 1609 to 1614.

In the 17th century, Andalusia and Córdoba‘s fortunes continued to decline. The last three ineffectual Hapsburg Kings had wasted much of the area’s wealth from its conquest of the Americas. In addition, epidemics and bad harvests killed some 300,000 people and further reduced Córdoba‘s shrinking population.

Under the Bourbon dynasty of the 18th century, Córdoba‘s fortunes recovered somewhat, although it would never again retain its importance as Andalusia’s economic and political capital. Then, in the so-called Age of Enlightenment, with its faith in reason, science, and social planning, new industries sprung up in Andalusia, including Seville’s first tobacco factory.

Sadly, by the late 19th century, Andalusia was again mired in severe economic turmoil. As a result, the region declined into one of Europe’s most backward, socially polarized areas with massive differences in living standards between rich and poor. Illiteracy, disease, and hunger were rife. Moreover, the industrial revolution that transformed northern Spain barely touched Andalusia.

The defining event of Spain’s 20th-century history was The Spanish Civil War between the military dictator Franco and the Republican government. Both sides committed terrible atrocities, including the murder of 7000 priests, monks, and nuns. Franco declared himself the victor in 1939 and remained in power until 1975. He kept Spain out of both World Wars, but under his dictatorship, personal freedoms were severely restricted – divorce was made illegal, and church weddings were compulsory.

Since Franco’s death and Spain’s relatively painless transition to democracy, Córdoba, like Andalusia as a whole, became steadily more prosperous and recovered some of the confidence of its glorious heyday. Today, its stunning architectural heritage and cultural significance make Córdoba an unmissable part of any Andalusian itinerary. A stunning monument to the legacy of Spain’s Moorish past!