Alicante once had a reputation, other than for its sweet wines, as a region of bulk production and lackadaisical plonk. But no appellation can ignore the global realignment towards quality over quantity that defines the wine market today – producers remain indifferent to this at their peril! Fortunately, Alicante saw sense in the early 21st century, embracing the ideas and passion of an emerging generation. Thanks to the efforts of these trailblazers, who now fully understand which international varieties suit their terroirs, premium styles have become normalized in Alicante; buyers and sommeliers are starting to take notice.
Moreover, with a renewed emphasis on producing elegant and fresh reds and the constant pressure on wineries to modernize their ideas, the respect and renown of this beautiful and surprising region can only grow.
Ruins of arched gates at Santa Barbara Castle in Alicante
Vines have been cultivated along Spain’s eastern Mediterranean coastline for over two thousand years. The ancient Romans saw great value in the production and consumption of wine, encouraging viticulture in every corner of their vast empire, excluding the most inclement parts of northern Europe!
Nevertheless, their arrival in the Iberian Peninsula in the 1st century BC saw vine plantations increase dramatically, particularly along the eastern seaboard. Yet, winegrowing was subject to a prolonged hiatus when the Western Roman Empire collapsed in AD 476. Indeed, historians commonly refer to this period as the Dark Ages. It was a time of great upheaval and conflict: wars raged as rival civilizations attempted to dominate Rome’s lost territories.
Moorish Influence and Agricultural Innovations
Among Spain’s more successful invading armies were the Visigoths, a Germanic tribe that established a capital in Toledo. However, they were displaced by the forces of Tariq, a Moorish general who invaded Andalucia in 711. His armies swept across the Iberian Peninsula in the 8th century, subjugating most of Spain and Portugal.
One of the greatest achievements of the Moors was bringing irrigation to eastern Spain’s Huerta (a fertile plain that could not grow crops due to a lack of water). Using their advanced knowledge of engineering and science, they built artificial channels that transformed the landscape of Alicante; the province remains a colorful sea of orange groves, vineyards, and market gardens.
However, in the Middle Ages, Catalan troops invaded the neighboring region of Comunidad Valenciana and successfully pushed the Moors out of eastern Spain. Many fled to Andalucia, where Muslim culture survived until the 15th century.
Meanwhile, the winegrowing industry was back in business; Alicante’s sweet, potent wines soon gained a favorable reputation at home and in the palaces of northern Europe. By the 16th century, the wines were in high demand from merchants in England and the Low Countries. The economic importance of Alicante’s wine industry was such that a royal decree was issued in 1510, prohibiting merchants from importing wines from outside Spain and restricting exports to the port of Alicante. Legend even records that le Roi Soleil (Sun King) Louis XIV demanded nothing but Alicante wine on his deathbed in 1715.
Yet despite the historically positive legacy of winemaking in Alicante, the region’s reputation for quality disintegrated in the 20th century. Apart from the celebrated sweet wine, Fondillón, produced from sun-raisened Monastrell, Alicante winemakers shifted their focus to bulk wine in the post-phylloxera environment.
As a result, an image of poor quality and mass production became widely associated with the region, a stubborn legacy that is now being overturned. The rise of the New World was partly responsible for this paradigm shift, as bulk wine prices in South Africa and South America undercut producers. Modern Alicante has committed to the quality path.
Geography and terroir
Although this corner of eastern Spain is primarily renowned for its beaches – and boisterous nightlife – Alicante now punches above its weight in the wine department. The appellation is situated in a province of the same name, located south of Valencia City. Awarded DO (appellation) status in 1957, the area under vine has traditionally been split into two distinct zones: La Marina, which forms a coastal strip between the towns of Denia and Calpe, and the larger subregion of Vinalopo, which is located further inland from the coast.
This division is entirely logical: La Marina and Vinalopo are blessed with a unique terroir and mesoclimate. The coastal La Marina area enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with hot summers (temperatures average 30 degrees in the summer) and mild winters. Rainfall, however, is reasonably plentiful, with, on average, 500 mm per year. The soils are primarily dominated by limestone over sedimentary rock, which allows good drainage. Some very promising dry whites are now being made here, in addition to the potent red blends that Alicante is increasingly renowned for.
Robust Monastrell
However, the Vinalopo region, which borders the Yecla district of neighboring Murcia, has a much fiercer continental climate, with summer temperatures exceeding 35 degrees. Rainfall is sparse, and with winter temperatures plummeting to 5 degrees, spring frosts are a constant menace. The predominant soil type is also quite different, with sandy soils covering the dry plains that lack organic material. Such challenging conditions mean that growers must be very selective with the varieties they plant, as many white varieties, for example, would struggle to produce high-quality wine in these conditions.
Yet the robust and drought-resistant Monastrell can really thrive in Vinalopo, yielding concentrated and voluptuous reds that benefit from a touch of Grenache and Carignan in the blend. It is also used to produce excellent fortified wine and a popular rosé style, which is still an important cash cow for growers.
Fondillón is a style of wine produced in the Alicante produced from overripe Monastrell grapes, and is typically semi-sweet.
When the Alicante region was awarded DO status in 1957, growers were permitted to work with just four grapes: Alicante Bouschet, Monastrell, Moscatel, and Bobal. The vast majority in this short and sweet list are red varieties. Yet Alicante was still overwhelmingly associated with sweeter styles in the mid-1900s: delicious fortified and dessert wines based on the Moscatel grape, a variety that thrives in the La Marina district. The most renowned of these sugary concoctions is Moscatel de Alicante. It can rival the finest dessert wines of Europe – honeyed and tropical fruit flavors leap out of the glass, balanced out by acidity and freshness.
However, from a historical perspective, Fondillón is the true jewel in Alicante’s crown. This monument to a different era dates back to the 17th century, when wealthy aristocrats regarded dry wines as very unappealing. Produced from overripe Monastrell grapes and with a solera (barrel) age of 10 years, the resulting depth of flavor and complexity in these wines is astounding.
Shift Towards Modern Wine Styles
Sadly, the market for dessert wines is virtually moribund in 2023. Thus, producers in Alicante are focusing their efforts on ripe (but balanced) reds and perfumed dry whites. The Monastrell grape, meanwhile, is commonly encountered in the Vinalopo subregion as it can tolerate intense summer heat and long periods without moisture. The resulting wine style is unashamedly fruit-forward and rich, with plenty of alcohol and structure. In the past, Alicante Monastrell was rather rustic and unsubtle – coarse even.
But, combining modern winemaking techniques and a more sophisticated approach in the vineyard has worked wonders for Monastrell’s reputation. Modern versions pivot between power and freshness with an ease that astonishes the critics.
There has also been a strong movement to embrace international varieties in Alicante. In recent years, growers have planted Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Garnacha, and Tempranillo in the soils of eastern Spain. Increasingly, export-focused and savvy bodegas (wineries) are crafting wines that appeal to a modern audience: powerful and yet balanced reds that are often blends of Tempranillo and international varieties. The best of these are superb and offer real competition to the wines of Penedès further north.
A former reliance on new barrels has also been toned down as producers seek to emphasize primary fruit characteristics instead of oaky flavors. A growing volume of surprisingly fresh white is also helping Alicante to conquer export markets based on a mixture of local and imported varieties. Thus far, Chardonnay has shown the most promise.
Facts & Figures
Key wine styles
Full-bodied reds, fruit-forward whites, a small volume of sweet wine
Appellation structure
Alicante DO
Hectares under vine
Approximately 10,000 hectares
Average annual production
150,000 hectoliters per annum
Approximate number of wineries
40
The lowdown
A reliable metric for assessing the potential of any region is the level of outside interest—and investment—it manages to attract. So, the Artadi family of Rioja was paying Alicante the sincerest compliment when they purchased a run-down estate called El Seque in 1999. After a slow start, this boutique winery has earned a strong following—both domestically and abroad—for the stunning quality of its wines.
Thirty years ago, it would scarcely seem possible that Alicante could produce such fresh and fragrant Monastrell, with tannins that glide across the palate instead of ‘sandpapering’ it. But the rusticity of the past has been tamed by ongoing investment and improved viticulture, replaced with elegance and poise. In 2023, Alicante can compete with the best of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and even Priorat.
Diversity and Innovation
It is also a DO that understands the value of diversity. Indeed, the regulations permit various styles to be made, including the sweet wines of Moscatel de Alejandra, barrel-fermented Chardonnay, aromatic Merseguera, and floral Bobal. You’ll find delicacy and potency in the wines of Alicante; satiate your desires for ripe and voluptuous reds in the ever-brilliant Monastrell blends of eastern Spain.
In the past, a discerning visitor bypassed local wines in favor of a glass of Rioja or perhaps a Ribera Del Duero to accompany their delicious tapas. However, if you take the time to explore the area’s viticultural offering, you’ll discover a reinvigorated appellation that is once again producing excellent wines. After several false starts, Alicante emerges from the shadows and goes into the light.
Muscat of Alexandria, or "Moscatel de Alejandría" in Spain, thrives in the country's diverse terroirs. Spanish winemakers utilize its captivating qualities to produce a range of wines, including renowned sweet fortified wines, dry whites, and delightful dessert wines, showcasing its intense floral aromas, luscious sweetness, and versatile character.
Merseguera
Merseguera grape is a white grape variety native to Spain, particularly Valencia and Alicante. With a rich history and ability to showcase terroir, it produces versatile wines with delicate aromas, balanced acidity, and subtle flavors. Whether enjoyed on its own or used for blending, Merseguera remains a beloved choice among wine enthusiasts, adding charm and character to the Spanish winemaking tradition.
Boal is a grape variety grown primarily on the island of Madeira. It is known for producing rich, medium-sweet wines with flavors of caramel, dried fruit, and nuts. With a deep amber color and a slightly smoky aroma, Boal wines have a smooth, velvety texture and a long, complex finish.
Discover Tempranillo: Spain's iconic red grape. From Ribera del Duero to Toro, it yields concentrated wines. Explore its synonyms and unleash its prowess.
It does not take long to find mouthwatering tapas in the dynamic city of Alicante. Virtually the entire center is dedicated to the art of good food and drink, with excellent restaurants and bars on every street corner and plaza. Once inside, savor the fresh Denia prawns, excellent Mediterranean seafood, montaditos (small rolls), and exquisite ham. Paella, a Valencian rice dish of international fame, can also be sampled in sit-down restaurants across the old town. But most visitors grab a bar stool, order a glass of something delicious, and soak in the lively atmosphere.
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
If you would like us to customize an exclusive luxury tour, contact us and let us know your travel plans. We offer luxury food and wine tours for private groups of a mininium two guests. In addition, all of our private, chauffeured tours are available year-round upon request.
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