Empordà Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

La Costa Brava, the rocky, rugged coastline along Spain’s northeastern shore, is far better known for its lovely seaside resorts and wave-lapped beaches than for its wines. Yet, on the border with Roussillon, is a very high-potential region, let down in the past by rustic equipment and poor winemaking. Still, nothing is second-rate about a benign Mediterranean climate and diverse terroir.

Indeed, the variety of soils here — limestone, sandy, volcanic, and clay-based — ensures that growers can cultivate many different grape varieties in the zone. In addition, the soils are mostly well-drained, albeit excessive fertility can be an issue in some sites, leading to undesirably high yields. The DO has more in common with the two adjacent French appellations of Banyuls and Côtes de Roussillon than any other Catalan vineyard.

A Blend of Natural Beauty and Unique Climatic

Nevertheless, the unbeatable combination of seascape and rural countryside makes Empordà one of Catalunya’s loveliest wine regions. The vines are planted at low altitudes (200 meters maximum) and are constantly caressed by the gentle breezes of the Mediterranean. Occasionally, they’re submitted to the harsher whims of the Tramuntana, a cold, northerly wind that sweeps down from the Pyrenees and prevents the region from getting too hot. As a result, nearly all the vines are staked for protection.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The northernmost of Catalunya’s DOs offers an expanding range of high-quality labels, often blends, that bear more than a passing resemblance to the wines of neighboring Roussillon. But in terms of making money, rosé has stolen a march with local retailers and restaurants.

Typically a blend of Garnacha and Carignan, Empordà pink has become a firm favorite in the holiday resorts of the Costa Brava. Pale in color but rich in flavor, they are made as gently as possible with minimal skin contact in the press before the juice is run off and subject to cool fermentation in stainless steel.

Rise of International Varieties

The best whites, meanwhile, tend to be judicious blends of Viura and Garnacha Blanca, with potent aromas of garrigue, citrus, and fennel. International varieties like Syrah and Merlot have also found their way into the vineyards of Empordà; the success stories generally outweigh the failures. However, the region’s biggest trump card is dry reds based on old bush vine Garnacha. The wines boast some of the Monstant potency, allied to Navarran Grenache’s freshness. They are rarely expensive.

The lowdown

Connoisseurs and critics once had little interest in this part of northern Spain. It’s understandable: Empordà traditionally produced heavy and rustic sweet red wines from raisened Garnacha Tinta berries, left to desiccate in the fall sun. Meanwhile, an age-old tradition saw fortified red and white wines stored in glass demijohns and left to oxidize in the sun – occasionally for several years. The result was a Sherry/Madeira hybrid and about as popular. Although late-harvest winemaking is essential to the area’s history, modern palates remain utterly apathetic to dessert wines, rare exceptions aside. For Empordà to survive, a drastic change was needed.

Thankfully, the region’s stakeholders took action in the early 2000s. They have invested significant amounts in modern viticultural techniques and equipment to save the reputation of their beloved DO. Some may decry this shift to modern styles as a betrayal of the region’s roots. But facts are facts: commercial necessity and sentiment rarely go hand in hand. For better or worse, Empordà has largely abandoned its birthright in favor of modernity. Its survival depended on it.

Emporda gastronomy

Dining out in Catalunya is the highlight of any visit. The region is blessed with abundant exceptional produce, while the coast provides every type of fresh fish imaginable. One of our favorite dishes is Arroz a la Catalana: a local version of paella, cooked in an earthenware pot without saffron. Arroz Negre also cannot be missed – you’d never believe that rice cooked in cuttlefish ink could taste so good! There is also the gastronomic treat known as tapas: bite-sized morsels of food sold in almost every bar and cafe in Spain. A local delicacy is Truita de Botifarra: sausage omelet, a Catalan take on the iconic tortilla.

Guide to Catalan Gastronomy: Read more